Another Way Of Making A Window Cill.

[pollys13]

Thanks people for all the suggestions, advice for making a window cill, would also be a door cill.
Someone else, today has added their two cents,

meccarroll " You seem to be looking at a lot of work arounds here.
The simplest solution is to glue on a separate cill extension to your frame at the bottom of the window. It is what most of the professional manufacturers do.
Make your bottom frame as a normal section (jamb section) then put a 10mm groove in it at the height of the cill. Machine a separate cill section with a 10mm tong on and glue it to the frame, simple!
You don't need to buy any specialist tooling to do it this way, it saves on timber and is very easy to do. Using this method you can choose which machine you use to do the slope according to your preference so you are not restricted in any way.

Mark "
Quite some time back I pulled a frame and sashes out of a skip stuck it in the back of the car and off home with the idea of working out how it was all jointed together.
The cill and window board were jointed to the frame in the method Mark gives.
What are other peoples views on using this approach. The windows and doors...... when I eventually come to make them will be made from Utile and oiled, waxed or stained as,if appropriate.
Thanks.

 

[kevinlightfoot]

Great method been doing like that for years without any problems be sure to use a good quality glue,I have great faith in cascamite,old fashioned I know but I'm an old fashioned kinda guy.

 

[PAC1]

If you are looking at options and ideas look at the Wealden window system. Never used it myself but if you are starting from a clean slate it is worth looking at. In any event it will show you options for making in sections

 

[RobinBHM]

It works well for windows, Ive been making windows that way for years. Its easy to machine and is easy to adjust the cill projection.

The window and cill is painted seperately, attached on site: silicone the joint and screw through from inside, usually through the windowboard groove.

Im not keen on a plant on cill for doors, theres a risk that somebody standing on the cill will flex the joint if theres a fair amount overhangjng the brickwork.

Typically a window cill is 70mm plus tongue x 40mm thick. Suitable for windows set back from brickwork face by 25-30mm.

A simple cill can be madd with a rebate block, cill drip groover (or saw blade cut for a rough option) and a cill water shed angle done easily under the thicknesser with an angled sled. Angle is usually 7 or 9 degrees.

A solid cill with a check rebate is mord tricky to do.

 

[pollys13]

Great method been doing like that for years without any problems be sure to use a good quality glue,I have great faith in cascamite,old fashioned I know but I'm an old fashioned kinda guy.

OK cheers.

 

[pollys13]

In any event it will show you options for making in sections. Just had a quick look and even though using a spindle moulder should give me some more insight and as you say options.
Thanks.

 

[Sawyer]

I tend to make them in the solid: hand-held portable saw set at an angle to cut the splay, then clean up with hand planes. I find this method fairly easy.

 

[pollys13]

I tend to make them in the solid: hand-held portable saw set at an angle to cut the splay, then clean up with hand planes. I find this method fairly easy.

OK thanks for the input.