Another tenon saw complete.

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swagman

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Victoria, Australia
Hi all. I just finished off another backsaw build. The handle wood is Tasmanian Blackwood. Its not the easiest of timbers to shape but it does give a very nice end finish.



The tooth line length is 8 1/2 inches and its been sharpened 14tpi.





I recently purchased 2 different types of counterbores that suit the saw screws I use from TFWW. At this point I have only trialled the type on the left hand side of the photo but the results were extremely precise when compared to my previous method of using a 1/2" forstner bit.



Work on the next backsaw has already commenced. This one I am using Australian Jarrah as the handle wood.



Regards, Stewie.
 
Yes very nice. For me personally the lines could be simpler, but that's taste. Nothing wrong with your design.

Because I am building some saws too at the moment, I have some questions. Just curious.
Do you use a slotted spine or folded?
I see you have the screws slightly protruded. Do you think that looks better then flush with the wood?
How many saws have you made so far? Do you ever sell them?

I make my own sawscrews and make them slightly oversized. that helps to get a nice fit, while still using simple drill bits. But when you use shop bought screws, I can see why you want better countersinking equipement.

If you want to have a peek at my struggles, have a look at my blog: http://seekelot.blogspot.nl/
 
Corneel":3e7rpni0 said:
Yes very nice. For me personally the lines could be simpler, but that's taste. Nothing wrong with your design.

Because I am building some saws too at the moment, I have some questions. Just curious.
Do you use a slotted spine or folded?
I see you have the screws slightly protruded. Do you think that looks better then flush with the wood?
How many saws have you made so far? Do you ever sell them?

I make my own sawscrews and make them slightly oversized. that helps to get a nice fit, while still using simple drill bits. But when you use shop bought screws, I can see why you want better countersinking equipement.

If you want to have a peek at my struggles, have a look at my blog: http://seekelot.blogspot.nl/

Hi Corneel. the spines I use are slotted. Less fuss than folding my own.

I used to keep my saw screws flush but from feedback received from other experienced saw makers they prefer to leave theirs slightly raised. I think the slightly raised does give a neater look.

Using the pilot counterbore is so much easier than the previous method I used. The 3/16th pilot keeps the 1/2" bore seat a perfect fit every time.

I have made quite a few. But in saying that a lot of my earlier handles have been replaced with newer ones as my knowledge and skills base improved with time and practice.
I haven't been overly concerned with having to sell the saws I make. Its only a hobby and not a needed income earner. But purely from a feedback point of view it would make sound advise to start selling a few off.

I had a look at your blog. You are doing a fine job with your backsaw making. Folding your own spines and making your own saw nuts - kudos to you. great effort. You would find going from shaping an open handle to a closed handle design a very big learning kerb. They are much more difficult to complete.

Where do you see your own saw making work heading in the future. !

Stewie;
 
I love the shape of your handles, very eligant and almost animated.

Corneel, just looked at your blog, some really nice work there too.

IMO you would both do well selling your saws if you chose to.

Mick
 
MickCheese":2p5vdhs5 said:
I love the shape of your handles, very eligant and almost animated.

Corneel, just looked at your blog, some really nice work there too.

IMO you would both do well selling your saws if you chose to.

Mick

Thanks for the feedback Mick.
 
Hi Swagman,,,those saws are truly tasty,,,whereabouts in Victoria are you ?,,I"d sure like to have a look if I came your way,,
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,joe,
 
Like your saw swagman. I don't have strong feelings about the screws being a bit proud. I agree about the elegance of the handle shaping, but have you considered shaping the handgrip profile to an elliptical shape for the ultimate in comfort? Quite a lot of work but in my experience of planes, it makes a huge difference.

Jim
 
joethedrummer":2fpffajs said:
Hi Swagman,,,those saws are truly tasty,,,whereabouts in Victoria are you ?,,I"d sure like to have a look if I came your way,,
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,joe,

Hi Joe. Portland, 3305.
 
yetloh":5bv5zbne said:
Like your saw swagman. I don't have strong feelings about the screws being a bit proud. I agree about the elegance of the handle shaping, but have you considered shaping the handgrip profile to an elliptical shape for the ultimate in comfort? Quite a lot of work but in my experience of planes, it makes a huge difference.

Jim

Hi Jim. I understand your reasoning. I have made quite a few traditional bench planes in the past and the elliptical shaped tote works very well indeed . Not sure I could adapt it to suit a closed backsaw handle but it may look okay for an open handle. Thanks for the feedback.

Stewie;
 
Thanks for your answers. Always nice to see what others are doing.

I have no idea yet where my sawmaking efforts will lead me to. I very much like copying the old designs, not really interested in making my own designs (yet). But one thing for sure, I want to keep doing this striclty as a hobby too. I'm making a small series of 4 saws now, which is a lot of work, considering the potential profit I could make. I'm not sure if it would keep on being fun.

I watched your pictures a little close. Some very nice details. Progressive teeth? If I may add one tiny little bit of critique, when I look at the inside of the upper horn, it is very straight. It might look a bit better if it was curved like the inside of the lower horn.
 
Corneel":3qg8jzmr said:
Thanks for your answers. Always nice to see what others are doing.

I have no idea yet where my sawmaking efforts will lead me to. I very much like copying the old designs, not really interested in making my own designs (yet). But one thing for sure, I want to keep doing this striclty as a hobby too. I'm making a small series of 4 saws now, which is a lot of work, considering the potential profit I could make. I'm not sure if it would keep on being fun.

I watched your pictures a little close. Some very nice details. Progressive teeth? If I may add one tiny little bit of critique, when I look at the inside of the upper horn, it is very straight. It might look a bit better if it was curved like the inside of the lower horn.

Hi Corneel. Standard 14tpi sharpening. Both the top and bottom horns are curved differently to best fit the placement of the hand. The top horn is much sharper in curvature as its here that the webbing between the thumb and forefinger help support the forward weight of the saw. Whereas the bottom horn is much more flatter in curvature to allow the bottom heel pad to mould in shape around base of the rear grip. Hope I have explained my thoughts on this well enough.

Stewie;
 
Lovely work both of you. :D

A pleasure to look at and a joy to know these skills and practices are great fun for you too. Don't get too caught up in selling them if it takes your enjoyment away, however if you can make a few bucks/quid, why not. But make sure you get a price which reflects the time and effort, or that the saw goes to someone who'll really appreciate them and use them.
 
RossJarvis":12fcv1km said:
Lovely work both of you. :D

A pleasure to look at and a joy to know these skills and practices are great fun for you too. Don't get too caught up in selling them if it takes your enjoyment away, however if you can make a few bucks/quid, why not. But make sure you get a price which reflects the time and effort, or that the saw goes to someone who'll really appreciate them and use them.

or that the saw goes to someone who'll really appreciate them and use them.

That would be the important element for me. Thanks Ross for the feedback.

Stewie;
 
Corneel":2g7v061v said:
Yes very nice. For me personally the lines could be simpler, but that's taste. Nothing wrong with your design.

Because I am building some saws too at the moment, I have some questions. Just curious.
Do you use a slotted spine or folded?
I see you have the screws slightly protruded. Do you think that looks better then flush with the wood?
How many saws have you made so far? Do you ever sell them?

I make my own sawscrews and make them slightly oversized. that helps to get a nice fit, while still using simple drill bits. But when you use shop bought screws, I can see why you want better countersinking equipement.

If you want to have a peek at my struggles, have a look at my blog: http://seekelot.blogspot.nl/


Hi Corneel. On my latest backsaw you would have noticed I left the saw bolts proud of the face of the handle. I think there are advantages in doing so. For example if you start off with them seated flush, by the time you tighten the saw screws up you can end up with a certain amount of creep as they compress into the handle timber. This amount will vary based on the type and hardness of the wood used for the handle. Once the saw bolts get below flush they can be a bit of an eye saw. But the look of the proud saw bolts needed some refinement to soften the transition in step change from the face of the bolt to the face of the handle. The answer was to add a chamfer to the outer rim of the saw nut. The following shows the jig I made up to add the chamfer to the saw bolts using a pedestal drill. The precision flat file was adhered to the jig block using CA. You can also view the chamfered saw nuts refitted to the backsaw. Kudos should go to Isaac http://blackburntools.com/ & Ron http://www.bontzsawworks.net/ for coming up with the solution to chamfer the saw bolts.

Regards, Stewie.









 
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