Another novice plane-builder....

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Kalimna

Established Member
Joined
18 Nov 2009
Messages
1,275
Reaction score
2
Location
Deanston, a stones throw from the Distillery
Greetings all,
For starters, what a fabulous resource this whole forum is - I feel rather ashamed to not have discovered it until recently!
I have firmly established myself in the 'complete beginner' section of woodworking, and am slowly progressing from being able to flatten and square up a piece of timber, to attempting something a little more complex (and probably beyond my current ability - but how is one to learn without attempting any challenges?)
Having read the planemaking book by Mr D Finck, and acquiring a couple of HNT Gordon planes (before I realised there are UK makers - sorry Philly!), I wanted to have a go at building my own wooden plane. Something about using a tool that I had made really appealed to me.
So, a fortuitous find in a local tool merchant that was closing down (a box of unused Marples & Sons warranted cast iron blades for less than a small round of drinks) gave me the business end - 2" blade.
The body I made from a sandwich of purpleheart, hornbeam and yew (last two being locally felled timber). Partly I wanted to have contrasting colours in the plane body, and partly because I drift towards making things awkward for myself....
I didn't use a chip-breaker as the book suggests, just an oak wedge simillar to the Gordon planes. With a padauk cross-piece.
Unfortunately, I didn't plan the width of the centre block too well, and it turned out to be about 8mm wider than the iron. Instead of reducing the width of the centre block, I glued in two hornbeam 'runners' to centre the iron.
Taking another cue from the Gordon planes, I sharpened the iron at 30 degrees, with a bed of 60. Whilst I haven't tried flipping the iron over to give a 90 degree scraping action yet, that was the idea.
Shaping of the plane body was done with a combination of microplane and belt sander (and hasn't been quite finished yet).

So, does it work?

Well, the whole plane turned out just a little bit bulkier than I had planned, though I am very pleased with the visuals (I note another thread roughly discussing the aesthetic vs 'how well does it do the job?' aspects of beautiful infill planes). However, I find the side a little high for a comfortable grip.
I don't think I have the wedge or crosspiece set up quite right, as it seems to come loose easily whilst planing. Perhaps I need to tap the wedge a little tighter? It almost feels like the wedge is too 'wedgey', and needs slimming down? Or the crosspiece is too close, relatively, to the sole.
Having said all that, I have just gone and taken a couple of shavings that read 0.02-0.05mm, and left a lovely silky finish on the walnut.

So, there you have it, my first proper post here, and once I am able to, I shall post some piccies. I welcome any advice/criticism and pointers for the next plane (possibly a scrub or a curved-sole). Be gentle!

Cheers,
Adam S

p.s. the other 'next' project is a rocking chair via Hal Taylors plans... deep end here we come.....
 
Hi Adam

Welcome to the forum! I'm sure you will find some expert assistance along shortly.

I too have an urge to make a hand plane, but many other projects keep getting in the way.

Cant wait to see the pictures!
 
Adam

Welcome to the forum.

You've just started on the slippiest slope of them all, planemaking is amazingly infectious. Cant wait to see your plane, and the next...

Cheers

Aled
 
Adam,

Your plane sounds very interesting, look forward to seeing the pictures.

I see from your PS that your next project is a rocking chair. I have wanted to make one of these chairs for some time but have been put off by the cost of the plans package. I had wondered if it was possible to make a chair using Hals book only ($75 in PDF format). Are you intending to buy the complete package from Hal, book and templates ($185)?

Mike
 
Kalimna well done for taking the plunge its well worth it in IMHO.

There maybe a number of reasons for the wedge loosening. How thick is the iron? a thin blade may chatter and loosen, is the blade perfectly flat sitting on a flat bed? the back of the iron where the wedge fits maybe domed. Examine the fit of the wedge carefully I would aim at getting a tight fit at either edge and mabe a minute hollow centrally as with a tight fit at the centre the blade tends to pivot. Sorting this out takes patience and a sharp block plane. For this reason I tend to make wooden planes with HNT style wedges glued to the side walls rather than with a centrepin as per Fink.

When I have time I'll try and post some pictures of the making a skew mitre ...work yet to start and Xmas looming!

Jeremy
 
Greetings all,
Thanks for the welcoming posts, now bear with me a little as I try and post some images. Im used to directly inserting them into forum posts, so linking externally may, or may not work first time....
They should be publicly viewable on flickr (via my BT account), so with any luck......

IMG_4715.jpg

This first one should be the whole plane, stuffed full of shavings :)
(some walnut at around 0.05mm, and some rippled maple a wee bit heavier at around 0.1mm, but still with no tearout and a silky finish)

IMG_4716.jpg

A side on view, showing length at around 13". Whilst I don't think it is visible on the image, the yew has a small amount of ripple figure in it.

IMG_4717.jpg

Thickish rippled maple shaving

IMG_4718.jpg

Thinnish black walnut

IMG_4720.jpg

The plane iron, wedge-shaped along its' length, 4.6mm at the business end, 4.2mm 10cm back... Stamped 'Marple & Sons, Hibernia, Warraned Cast Steel'

IMG_4721.jpg

Side view of the throat, runners, pencil marks, padauk cross pin showing

IMG_4722.jpg

Another throat view, highlighting the rather sloppy fit of the crosspin, the hornbeam runners and a little cyano wicked into the corners....

IMG_4726.jpg

Sole view, complete with flattening-stage pencil marks.

Overall, Im really pleased with how it has turned out. I think it needs to be de-bulked slightly, particularly around the front. The shaping needs to be refined quite a bit, as does the surface finish - I know that Krenov and Finck (sounds like a Dickensian lawyer firm!) see the tool as functional and not requiring a fine finish, but I like looking at beautiful wood!
The fit of the crosspin is a little sloppy, which may account for the lack of wedge stability. As it happens, I wasn't confident of my ability to cut a circular tenon on the ends of the crosspin, so I used 2 dowels partway through the faces and a separate free-to-rotate-with-flattened-section centre dowel that is the wedge-holding part.

Hopefully this post will work ok....
I look forward to any opinions from the forum, suggestions of what to improve, and 'why on earth did you do that?!?' comments too.

Cheers,
Adam S

p.s. sorry for the repost - hopefully this time the images will appear not as links, but as images....
 
Mike - Following a websearch, I found Hal Taylors website via Chris (waterhead37)'s website. I contacted Mr Taylor and he forwarded the pdf manual onto me, with the understanding that payment and plans/template would follow if I felt comfortable enough to attempt it. I am still reading. Currently page 160 out of 230-odd! Im not sure that building a chair straight from the book would be possible, unless you were able to build a chair like that from scratch anyway, as there are no plans as such. Many, many photos, however. I think I shall take the plunge and order the plans too - have no idea how long it will take me, and it will be a veritable Everest of a learning curve! Mr Taylor, I think, follows the Norm Abrams school of powertoolery, and I plan to do a considerable amount without electricity, which will be interesting. And a source of many questions put to others here on this forum....
 
Jeremy - Thank you for your comments. I honestly don't think that the iron is too thin - at 4.6mm, it's fairly hefty! I'm also pretty sure that both the back of the iron and the bed are as flat as I can make them. Your suggestion of having a slight hollow, however, sounds very sensible indeed, and I shall check it out. Similarly, using side-wedges rather than a crosspin is something I may just try out next time as the crosspin was a source of considerable headache for me!
If the photo's show up in my post above, then hopefully it might give you a further idea why my plane might be less than perfect!

I look forward to seeing any of your skew mitre photo's. I think a panel-raising plane sounds like an interesting project as well.

Cheers,
Adam S
 
Nice work Adam.

That looks very good for a first attempt. I like the laminated construction, nice contrast between the colours.

As regards the wedge, it takes quite a bit of fiddling to get the fit right, but I don't think you're far off.

James Krenov always made his cross pins a sort of triangular shape with rounded ends, that way you have a much greater surface area for the wedge to bear up against. Try that for your next attempt.

You'll be making a brass/steel dovetailed plane in no time :wink: :wink:

Cheers

Aled
 
Adam,

The photos show off your plane very well. I like your choice of woods. I had a go at making a scraper plane a while ago and had a similar problem with the wedge not staying tight. I have not persevered with it but this thread has made me want to have another go at it.

Thanks for the information on the rocking chair. I have made a set of dining chairs and I know from that that the angles and sizes are critical to achieving a comfy end result. I think this applies even more to the rocking chair. One of the joys of Sam Maloof's rockers is the wonderful shaping of the wood. Definitely a job for hand tools. I will be interested to know how you get on. I don't think there is anything particularly difficult in making one, you just need to take your time. I might drop Hal an e-mail although if I do I'm sure to get sucked in! Incidentally there are a couple of other American woodworkers who also offer plans, Scott Morrison and Charles Brock. It is difficult to know which is the best!

Mike
 
Hi Adam, welcome. Never having been in the position of being able to use a plane costing hundreds of pounds I have made a number of woodies for my own use, like you the idea of something that personal was the start of yet another slope!
I noticed you commented about the feel of the finish, this is something I have also noted with wooden planes that I have never seen with the metal ones that I have used and is reason enough, for me, to prefer woodies.
Keep up the good work!

Roy.
 
Adam

I've had a look at you photos now, wow great first effort! I typically use 8-9 degree slope on my wedges and find these grip well. I agree with Aled that the cross-pins usually have a large flat that the wedge fits against but I'm don't think it's wise to file a flat on your cross-pin as it will weaken it. But it may well be worth trying a wedge with a shallower slope.

Jeremy
 
Back
Top