Angle Grinder Disk for Stone.

[BearTricks]

I have some jaunty stones sticking out of the wall of my workshop and I could do with grinding some corners off so that things can fit in a bit more nicely. Never having used an angle grinder, I've borrowed a Bosch one, checked with the owner (my dad) and he says it's a small job that wont bring the shed down on top of me. He's an engineer though, so all the disks he has are for metal and have various degrees of wear.

What are the best disks for stone? There's one stone that probably needs three or four inches taking off it, the rest just need bringing down level (or close enough) to the rest of the wall.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can buy cheap diamond discs for £3 or £4 that will do everything you need. No need to spend more.

 

[blackrodd]

You don't say if you have loaned a 9", 5", or 4 1/2", cutter, And I see lately you can get discs that will cut either stone or steel. Some stones are pretty hard, and I'd be inclined to get a Dedicated Stone disc from the start.
Diamond are good value usually, but a 9" can be a bit costly when only doing one job!
Some stone is very dusty DON'T forget the dust mask and if you have a leaf blower or hoover with a good filter, get a masked helper to blow, or suck the dust well away from any nice windows, doors etc close by.
HTH Regards Rodders

 

[heimlaga]

There are dedicated stonecutting discs that looks simlilar to the ones for metal but something is different in to composition. They wear pretty fast but for an one time job like this they should be ideal.

Remember to protect your lungs and also your belongings from the stone dust. Stone dust is abrassive and can cause disaster with your machine tools and find it's way into the surface of wood.

 

[Beau]

I use one of these in a 4 1/2 grinder. Fantastic for grinding concrete, bricks and granite. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p36681

 

[BearTricks]

It's 4 1/2". I already have my wood turning PPE so I'll go with that although my dad did throw some goggles in the case with the grinder.

 

[Wildman]

be aware the stone dust will probably kill the grinder. It gets embedded in the carbon brushes and they disintegrate for a pastime.

 

[n0legs]

be aware the stone dust will probably kill the grinder. It gets embedded in the carbon brushes and they disintegrate for a pastime.

Good point, so blow it out or get the hoover.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Can you make a groove all round then knock the piece off with a bolster and lump hammer?

Grinders indoors will ruin anything wooden left in the room and they won't help anything metal with grease on it.

If indoors, I really, really wouldn't consider doing this unless it was possible to clear the place of wood and sheet up and seal all the machines. Even then you're taking a risk when you remove the sheeting.

If the room connects to the house, consider getting some wide PVC tape (the stuff for DPC joining comes in 4" wide rolls) and sealing EVERY crack you can see or guess at. until after the cleanup.

It gets in the air, it's carried on the soles of shoes, and clothes, and tools and toolboxes, and I'm sure some of it just re-materializes in back bedrooms by itself.

And it gets in your hair and lungs... :-(

E.

 

[Dee J]

You don't give your location, so we can't predict the type of stone.... but unless it is something very hard, or the mortar is too soft... I'd be more inclined towards a club hammer and bolster. Much less mess.

 

[BearTricks]

I'm in the north west. I'm not sure on the type of stone. It's a medium grey colour, if that helps. I don't think it will.

The workshop is empty at the moment although there is some wooden shelving up, the floor is wood and two of the walls are pure white. Perhaps a club hammer and bolster is the way to go then. What's the best way to make a groove?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Drill a series of holes, then split between them.

 

[BearTricks]

Cheers Phil. Off to Screwfix then.

 

[graduate_owner]

If you are using a 9" grinder then be careful you don't let the disc jam in the cut. I use a securing nut which has a clutch type mechanism and will slip instead of taking your arm off in the event of a jam. They cost about £9 and you use them in place of the normal securing nut, plus you can tighten and loosen by hand, no need for a pin wrench.


K

 

[BearTricks]

I went with the hammer and bolster route. I probably wouldn't have won any respect from any builders and it's a good job aldi had steel toe capped boots on sale recently, but I got the job done.