Amateur making an oak table

[Jvarty99]

Hi all

I'm just getting started on a woodwork project, and thought I'd run some issues past some experts before wading in... I have limited experience with woodwork, but like experimenting. I built a castle for my kids last year which is still standing and worked well - albeit being rough around the edges....

I am making a table top out of 4 x dried, planed oak lengths that are 22x5x160cm.

My questions:

I need to glue and join each length, but I don't have any clamps. Would a couple of cheap ratchet straps do the trick? Also for extra stability, I will be screwing 2 batons on the underside widthways. I was wondering though if drilling holes through the sides of the 4 oak lengths and threading a large bolt / securing and tightening with a nut would be a good idea? (I don't mind the aesthetics of this). This would also mitigate the issue with having a lack of clamps - but I'm not entirely sure how I would drill a dead straight hole through 22cm of oak...

This will be going outside, and covered when it's raining. Can I expect it to warp badly? If so, is it best to not glue and join each length? Should I leave a small gap in between each length for it to expand / contract?

Finally, and in view of the above - Would a good few coats of varnish be ok outside, or would letting the oak 'breathe' and oiling instead be a better idea?

Apologies for my questions - any advice appreciated!

James

 

[RobinBHM]

Outside, I would leave gaps between the boards. This allows each board to move independantly somewhat. Over size or slotted holes in the bearers you use to screw them together.

Look at the end grain of your boards and fix them smiley face up.

Avoid steel fixings or you will end up with black marks.

Robin

 

[kinsella]

James
I’m not an expert, but the bolt idea sounds difficult. I will have to make some assumptions from your description above.
1. i assume you want the top to look contiguous and this is why you need cramps and are thinking of using the bolts.
2. if the above is correct maybe you consider using a chamfer (use a hand plane) on the edges to hide any irregularities and then your clamp idea may work. it won’t matter too much if you don’t have full contact as you are using a batten underneath.
3. if you use the batten underneath, then why do you need to glue the boards together? if you use the chamfer then this will hide movement.
4. As you say if you don’t have many tools, you want to keep it really simple and easy to build and adapt the design to suit your ability and equipment.
5. When i started out i used dowels and just stood them up to allow gravity to act as a cramp. it worked to a fashion but i was running before i could walk.
6. I'm a firm believer of natural finishes, and if its oak, then it will weather perfectly with nothing on it, as it will go grey, so unless you want the oak colour to be maintained, then I’d oil it. If you oil or varnish then you will also need to do so every year or it will start to go grey anyway. (Check out my pic, that bench is now dark grey)

 

[James-1986]

You can apply a massive amount of clamping pressure with rope, but you need some protection on the edges to stop bruising or the rope getting cut, tighten it like a tourniquet using a strong dowel/spanner/bar. I don't see why ratchet straps would not achieve the same thing. The only issue might be having all the pressure on one side, rope works well on a door for example but when you clamp together something like a table top you need even clamping pressure both sides otherwise you end up with a canoe; worth a trial run. If you screw a batten across the width of a glued up top its likely to split. Shrinkage buttons or brackets will keep it held down onto the table and allow some movement.

 

[woodfarmer]

Why not bodge a set of clamps from the threaded rod. it is how I glue bowl blanks together?

 

[Mr T]

For an external piece leaving the boards with gaps may be the easiest option it you are happy with the aesthetics. Drilling for the threaded rod would be difficult and you would have staining problems from the oak/steel mix.

If you decide to joint the boards I would suggest making up a board with batons on either side with sliding wedges that squeeze the boards together. I will try to post a mock up of this later. Some weights on top would prevent the boards from bowing up.

I would arrange the boards with the annual rings alternately "happy" and "sad" "look at the ends you will know what I mean) to even out the cupping.

Chris

 

[MickCheese]

For temporary clamps do a Google search for Fox Wedges.

But

I would go with the gaps for an outside table.

Mick

 

[custard]

Hello James, you really don't want a solid wood table top outside. In fact you really don't want a top with slatted boards that are 220mm wide, 50mm or at a pinch 75mm is about as wide as you want to go to avoid cupping and twisting.

That's the bad news.

The good news is that a top made up of 50/75mm wide boards with 5mm gaps between them doesn't need any clamps. It can be screwed into cross members with stainless steel or bronze screws. If you use regular steel screws in oak you'll get a big black stain as the tannin in the oak reacts with the metal. If you use brass screws there's a big risk they'll sheer off, you could drill a generous pilot hole and pre-cut the hole with a steel screw before replacing with a brass screw, but that's a big faff and you'd still be reticent about fully tightening a brass screw in case it sheers.

 

[Myfordman]

I'd save the wide oak boards for something else to be honest.
Instead get some 75 x 25 iroko and make a slatted top. I've got one with breadboard type ends which is outside all year round un covered and now coming up for its 3rd summer with no problems.

 

[Benchwayze]

Mr T beat me to it. Folding wedges, my favourite means of cramping when I don't have the right sash cramp.

But if the table is going outside, then definitely leave gaps between the laths. No need to glue up the top at all. The picnic tables you find in any pub car-park, or open picnic area will demonstrate that. :wink:

Best of luck,

 

[Jvarty99]

Thanks for all of the advice. Just wondering though - if I was very disciplined about covering the table when it rained, would this make a difference with having a solid wood table top outside? - or at least having the size of boards I've got and constructing with gaps in between? Would varnishing add extra protection from the elements, or is there anything else I could do in order to do this the way I'm suggesting?

Cheers

 

[Nick Gibbs]

Thanks for all of the advice. Just wondering though - if I was very disciplined about covering the table when it rained, would this make a difference with having a solid wood table top outside? - or at least having the size of boards I've got and constructing with gaps in between? Would varnishing add extra protection from the elements, or is there anything else I could do in order to do this the way I'm suggesting?

Cheers

I agree with everyone else who has advised against a solid top. Gaps are good, and chamfered make them look more intentional, as someone else suggested. Varnish won't help much. If you oil it, make sure you also finish the underside of the tabletop to equalise moisture changes. Wider slats (rather than 2in wide ones) is likely to give the table a slightly smarter look.

 

[custard]

Thanks for all of the advice. Just wondering though - if I was very disciplined about covering the table when it rained, would this make a difference with having a solid wood table top outside? - or at least having the size of boards I've got and constructing with gaps in between? Would varnishing add extra protection from the elements, or is there anything else I could do in order to do this the way I'm suggesting?

Cheers

 

[Phil Pascoe]

and?

 

[Benchwayze]

No comment maybe?

 

[dejaa]

Hi
Having just read all the above I get the impression you would still prefer a solid top without gaps. If your capabilities / equipment allow I would suggest you cut each piece lengthwise so you have 8 pieces 110mm wide. Align them so that growth rings are up/down on adjacent pieces then join them with full length spline.
The table is going to be outside so if the entire width expands and contracts 1/2" with seasons doesn't matter but you will need to fix with slotted holes to allow for it.

David

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you think you can keep that lot in one piece outside - the best of luck to you.