Alternative to Lamello zeta p2?

[dvddvd]

I'm building a prototype of a travel electric guitar. The body splits into 3, the main body and 2 clip on top and bottom pieces.

I want a way to connect the top and bottom pieces and then unconnect them when it get packed away.

I'm using some striplox Megalox at the moment which work well but the channels have to be routered out spot on

You router a channel into each piece, fix each connector in the channel with woodscrews and they click into each other and then slide to lock.

I've seen the Lamelo zeta p2 system which seems easier to do but it's a big outlay, around £1400

Is there anything similar that does not need the special biscuir jointer etc?

thanks

 

[petermillard]

I’ve never used them, but the Lamello Clamex S-20 connector works with any (4mm) biscuit jointer - the fittings screw into the carcass, and you use an allen key to attach/release the fitting. At a couple of quid each they’re not a cheap connector, but cheaper than a Zeta for occasional use, and because of the slim profile they can be used in material as thin as 8mm, they say.

Might be worth a look?

 

[BucksDad]

Please do a project thread if you can - sounds like a cool project!

 

[dvddvd]

Thanks I will do, didn't realise there was a screw version of the clamex, I have a normal biscuit jointer. So will order some and try

 

[dvddvd]

Seems the Clamex s18 are avaliable now but need a 8mm biscuit slot but the S20 are not available until Sept but only need a 4mm normal biscuit slot. So sound perfect for what I need. A basic screw fixed Zeta p fixing. I will order some when they are available and maybe move to a full zeta p system later on

 

[Spectric]

The first thing that comes to mind is will it still sound the same if flatpack ? Not knowing the forces involved would rare earth magnets work. Also you are

I'm building a prototype of a travel electric guitar. The body splits into 3, the main body and 2 clip on top and bottom pieces.

Are there better ways to reduce the size of it for travel, could you not hinge the long bit that sticks out and maybe even hinge the main body using hinges for table leafs.

 

[dvddvd]

Hi I'm on holiday in Spain at the moment with the prototype.
I made the body out of 18mm plywood. The centre piece is doubled up so 36mm and the click on top and bottom pieces 18mm plywood.

 

[dvddvd]

 

[dvddvd]

 

[dvddvd]

 

[dvddvd]

I wanted it to be the same size body as a normal electric guitar, so you don't feel like your playing a toy.
The neck unbolts from the body and also splits into 2.
Which was a pain to do as there's a metal truss rod running inside the neck and that had to be cut and then a metal connectors welded on.

I will make another with lots of changes..I will build one out of some nicer timber Ash or Tulipwood.
Plus I'm going to change the neck into a 1 piece neck but 50mm shorter so it's not longer than the body so the max length of any piece is 430mm. I will just have to move the bridge 50mm further away and it will become a 17 fret guitar instead of 22 fret.

When I get home ill start a build thread on it from start to finish

 

[dvddvd]

 

[dvddvd]

thanks I did think about rare earth magnets but not sure how strong they are. The bottom and top section are against your body and you seem to lean into the guitar when playing sat down

 

[dvddvd]

As for the sound since it's electric and I'd plug in a mini amp module which changes the sound to anything you want really...then use headphones or if wanted you could just plug into a proper amp.
I was impressed with its resonance with just plywood, must be the holes letting it resonate more.
But it was never designed to be the best sounding guitar ever, it was built to be able to pack into a carry on, on a budget airline and have a neck and playability like a normal full size guitar. Built to be able to practice whenever, wherever and weighs 2.2 kg so not taking to much of your weight allowance

 

[BucksDad]

Amazing - love it!

 

[HOJ]

That's really neat, do you rout the Megalox in after shaping, could you do that first then shape, maybe not so critical then.

 

[dvddvd]

I have a Ratrig cnc machine that cuts the shape and holes plus the pick up pockets.
Then I hand route the megalox slots in the side.
I could off course make some sort of jig and use the cnc machine. It would mean cutting into my spoilboard and building some sort of clamp system as the z axis is not high enough to be able to clamp the pieces vertical and cut the slots

 

[Spectric]

The photos make things much clearer, but do you need anything other than the middle bit ? If you want the two sides for cosmetic reasons then I would say magnets would work as there is no stress on the wings.

 

[dvddvd]

thanks, you can buy travel guitars that resemble the middle part but have a removable wire frame that makes the rest of the guitar shape. But their necks are not removable so to long for hand luggage.
The top and bottom sections are partly cosmetic but I've owned one of the wire framed guitars and they just don't feel right to play. The bottom section rests on your knee and the top against your chest while sat down so it does get a far amount of sideway pressure.
Not to sure what the policy is of bringing strong real earth magnets on a airplane too?

 

[--Tom--]

Nice project!

With the top and bottom sections could a sliding dovetail work? With the kit you have you could make it tapered too so only tightens up at the end but is all supported.