alcove wardrobe Qs

[mango301]

Hi,

First of all just thought I'd say hello, I'm new to the forum but I've been reading a few posts. I'm what you may call a keen diyer with a developing interest in wood work which I hope to develop further.

I'm hoping to build some fitted wardrobes in two alcoves either side of a chimney. I've had a look at many of the previous posts on the subject and found all very helpful. I still have a couple of questions I was hoping someone may be able to help me with though.

Alcoves measure approximately 2.5m high, 1.14m wide and I'm hoping to make the wardrobe 0.45m deep. Having initially thought about making a frame and cladding it I've read about making carcasses and I think that this may be a better way to go.

So the outline plan is to make a base with either adjustable feet or using blocks of wood to level it. Main wardrobe (clothes rail housing bit) goes on to this and then upper cupboard bit goes on top of this, both carcasses. All fixed to the walls (which are slightly out of plumb but not too bad). Once in I'll then make a face frame to fit to the carcasses which will include a side panel to run from the front edge of the wardrobe down the side to meet the chimney face.

Hopefully the above is clear enough but let me know if not. Right the questions I have are as follows:

What is the best material for the carcasses, mdf or ply? Is there a preferable one to use? Was going to go for 18mm? Having checked prices this morning I'm looking at £45 for ply and £25 for mdf, so that may help the decision!

With a width of 1.14 will the top of the wardrobe sag do you think?

For the face frame I originally was going to use joinery softwood but having read some posts I'm concerned that it may warp/bow over time. The whole thing will be painted so maybe if I use the cheapest hardwood that may help?

I was going to use brass butt hinges to fix the doors on and line the opening of the doors with something to mimic a scratch bead which will line up with the hinge barrel. Is it ok to fix the hinges to the face frame, if so shall I use 18mm thick material for the face frame?

Just to add that at present I have standard DIY tools, circ saw, mitre saw, drill, and hand tools. Hoping to buy a router soon so if it would help this project (biscuit joining the face frame?) I can get one. No domino, buscuit jointer, table saw etc.

Apologies for the long and rambling first post, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Stu

 

[petermillard]

Hello & welcome.

I did an old thread here that, whilst about workflow, covered the building of some alcove cabinets and wardrobes, which may be of some use.

I do quite a lot of this kind of thing, and carcasses to be painted are always MR MDF, usually 18mm; 1140mm is quite a wide span for a double wardrobe - a double skin of 18mm glued and screwed is usually pretty stable i.e. the top of the wardrobe and the base of the top-box, and the face-frame should help to stop things sagging.

Re the carcass depth - 450mm is quite shallow; my standard wardrobe carcasses are usually between 500-550mm deep just FYI.

I'd recommend some kind of biscuit jointer for alignment, and carcass / pocket-hole screws to keep everything together while the glue sets. I don't do much with face-frames so I'll let someone else chime in on those.

HTH Pete

 

[paulrockliffe]

I don't have time to do a full explanation, but here are some pics of how I did similar that might help you.

I'd echo the above though, 450mm isn't deep enough. I ended up at 520mm after pulling every trick to get some extra depth, which is fine for opening doors, but 550 would be better for sliding doors.

Anyway, wood is all ash and came in at about £350 a wardrobe when finished:

20150408-DSC00952.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

20150409-DSC00955.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

20150409-DSC00956.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

20150410-DSC00960.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

20150411-DSC00962.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

IMAG0077.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

I made a second one to a slightly different design; the cantilevers are really useful for your high ceilings:

20150411-DSC00966.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

IMAG0053.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr

 

[Roughcut]

I think you definitely need to have a re-think about the 450mm depth of your wardrobe.
I would go 550mm minimum, the couple I've done in the past have been 600mm.

 

[will1983]

***** Post removed by member *****

 

[Zeddedhed]

As above, 18mm MR MDF for the carcasses.
I level in a 50 x 50 batten front and back on the floor with shims and packers to sit the carcasses on.
The width you have is right on the limit for 18mm. Either double it up as suggested, use 25mm for the tops, bases and shelves or put in a central divider.
Face frames also from 18mmMR MDF. Fix a strip to each edge of the carcass flush with front of the door and one to the wall and you can use these to fix your face frame to. Cover the bottom 50 x 50 with MDF to form either a recessed point (like a kitchen) or a continuation of the frame.

And then take loads of pictures and let us see how it goes.

 

[mango301]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies and the help, much appreciated. I think I must have measured an odd hangar, yep definitely need a min of 500 within the wardrobe. Had a look at a cheap erbaurer biscuit jointer, the recent reviews look fairly good and for occasional use it looks ok (please advise if not), will i need to screw the carcass together as well as use biscuits? Pocket hole jig for the face frame sounds like a good idea, or should I biscuit this only?

I'm just trying to get my head around the face frame/carcass bit. Does the inside edge of the face frame sit flush with the inside of the carcass, or does it/can it sit further in? My initial drawing of the wardrobe has 50mm wide face frame strips either side of the doors (see photo). If the face frame sits flush with the inside edge of the carcass then I'll have to pack out behind the side panel on the right which meets the chimney breast front I guess.

The other half has said she'd like a grain on the exterior so was planning on using ash for the frame and side panel, was going to order 25mm thick as been told once planed it'll be more like 19mm so will this be substantial enough to fix the hinges and doors to?

I've been told numerous times before that I like making things difficult for myself or that I over think things so please let me know if I'm doing either.

Thanks again.

Stu

 

[mahomo59]

Hi Stu

You're welcome to pop to the workshop if you'd like a chat and a look see. I,m on a kitchen build at present, face frame, butt hinges with shaker doors but more than happy to share ideas if it will help. I'm in Brislington.

James

 

[mango301]

Hi James,

That would be great, thanks. Not far from me too as I'm in Bedminster. When would be a good time?

Stu

 

[dzj]

If 0.45m depth is all you have, you could put two of these side by side.

http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/p/extendin ... 16662/5670