Advice re: best detail power sander

[CoolNik]

Looking for advice from those who are used to getting a fine finish on interior items, including boxes and clocks. I have been advised to purchase a Festool R90 FEQ Rolex sander. I know next to nothing about finish sanders and need advice? Is this the best sander for the job? It is round but seems like it can change shapes. What do you use and why? What grit do you finish at?

Looking forward to receiving your opinions.

 

[Yojevol]

This Festool sander appears to be a dual purpose machine in that it has 2 operating heads - triangular and circular. I've no doubt that it is a top quality unit, as with all Festool, but it comes at a price. The actual finish you can get depends more on the operator and the abrasives used than the machine.
Personally when making anything with an internal finished surface I like to get the best possible sanded surface before assembly. I then attempt to preserve that finish with protection through the gluing process. Inevitably there are occasions when, despite my best efforts, there is a need to tidy up before applying the finish product. This I do either by hand or use of a triangular style detail sander.
If you want to go for a detail sander I would recommend a multitool such as the Bosch Multitool.
My library of sanders these days is (in order of usage) Bosch Multitool, Metabo ROS, DeWalt Palm, Elu Belt , Hitachi 1/2 Sheet. All do an excellent job. The Hitachi has really been replaced by the Metabo which is easier to live with.
I usually finish sanding at 150 for oil finishes and 240 for lacquers/varnishes, denibbing with 320 between coats.
Brian

 

[Phill05]

Elu belt sander then follow up with a DeWalt Multi tool with two sizes of triangular pads.

Edit: just looked grit sizes from 120, 240, 400, 600, 800, I use these on clock cases and metal, I also have upto 2000 4000, on a diamond disc I made.

 

[CoolNik]

This Festool sander appears to be a dual purpose machine in that it has 2 operating heads - triangular and circular. I've no doubt that it is a top quality unit, as with all Festool, but it comes at a price. The actual finish you can get depends more on the operator and the abrasives used than the machine.
Personally when making anything with an internal finished surface I like to get the best possible sanded surface before assembly. I then attempt to preserve that finish with protection through the gluing process. Inevitably there are occasions when, despite my best efforts, there is a need to tidy up before applying the finish product. This I do either by hand or use of a triangular style detail sander.
If you want to go for a detail sander I would recommend a multitool such as the Bosch Multitool.
My library of sanders these days is (in order of usage) Bosch Multitool, Metabo ROS, DeWalt Palm, Elu Belt , Hitachi 1/2 Sheet. All do an excellent job. The Hitachi has really been replaced by the Metabo which is easier to live with.
I usually finish sanding at 150 for oil finishes and 240 for lacquers/varnishes, denibbing with 320 between coats.
Brian

Thanks very much for your thoughts, Brian. I do appreciate your listing the sanders you use for the detail work which is where I really struggl. I do not have a multi tool but I think that it has just shot to the top of my wish list! Thanks Robyn

 

[CoolNik]

Elu belt sander then follow up with a DeWalt Multi tool with two sizes of triangular pads.

Edit: just looked grit sizes from 120, 240, 400, 600, 800, I use these on clock cases and metal, I also have upto 2000 4000, on a diamond disc I made.

Phil, thatnks for listing the grits that you generally use with your sanders. It is interesting that both of you who responded to my question use a multi tool. I have added a multi tool to my wish list, just have to sort out which make to get!! Anyway, thanks for your thoughts on this issue, Robyn

 

[ajs]

Phil, thatnks for listing the grits that you generally use with your sanders. It is interesting that both of you who responded to my question use a multi tool. I have added a multi tool to my wish list, just have to sort out which make to get!! Anyway, thanks for your thoughts on this issue, Robyn

Only just seen this but I would have suggested an oscillating multitool too. The great thing for sanding is the nature of the movement puts the most aggressive areas around the edges and in particular the corners of the pad which is exactly what you want for internal sanding, and the very opposite of an orbital or "mouse" sander.

 

[Ollie78]

I use my Fein multimaster with the triangle sanding head for smaller stuff, I have a 150mm triton dual action sander which is a bit of a beast and also a Makita 9004 belt sander which is excellent.
I also have a floorstanding belt sander which I wish I bought sooner. Sometimes it's better to take the item to the sander rather than the other way round, especially small stuff.

For most furniture and internal stuff I go to 240 or 320 grit for oil finishes.
If doing a super fine finish with shellac or something sometimes I will break out the wet and dry paper and go to 1000 grit.

Not all sandpaper is the same. I only use the official Fein sanding triangles as they are nicer than the others I tried, for the orbital and hand sanding I use Abranet or the morrells version and for the belt sanders either Mirka or klingspor.

I am going to get a box of the 3m extract cubitron 2 which is apparently the best ever sandpaper according to tests.

Ollie

 

[naughtymoose]

I recently bought a Festool RTS 400 sander as it was suggested to me by my excellent plasterer/decorator for preparing the paintwork and also de-nibbing between coats.

It's fantastic, and I can see myself using it in my mini workshop for the exact items you talk ask about CoolNik.

There is also a version with an interchangeable delta or circular pad.

Hope this helps.

 

[naughtymoose]

BTW the Festool Rotex 90 is next on my list!

 

[cowtown_eric]

ANY oscillating saw/sander is better than none at all. My first was a Fein at 500$cdn, second only cost 25$ three years later off a discount (returned) counter- why, because the blade was installed incorrectly.

What I would look at is cost of blades. Fein is still insanely expensive, and while you get what you pay for, hitting a single brad with a saw blade trashes even the most expensive.

There are adapters available for cheap blades, but that gets fussy

Now I'm using a dewalt cordless which has a quick clamp (no hex keys required) the hook and loop triangles go south fairly quickly, so check the cost of them, as they may nee replacement before you think they should be-fact of life.

Eric in the colonies