Advice please re: blade for 10" table saw

[CoolNik]

I need to purchase a blade for my Bosch GTS 10 XC table saw that is permanently mounted into my workbench. I specifically require this blade to cut thin strips (v. thin such for Kumiko) from solid wood pieces - oak, ash, maple, pine etc. We are advised to purchase a sawblade with a "narrow kerf" if someone could make a suggestion, it would be very helpful! The saw will have to be 254mm with a bore of 25.4mm.

I don't know what kerf the blade should have, nor do I know or mind what make it should be nor the teeth details. Please would someone give me some guidance about what make is reasonable quality and give me your thoughts on the other details that I need to know in order to purchase a saw blade.

I won't hold anyone responsible for your suggestions, rather I will be pleased o receive a number of suggestions in case I have difficulties in getting a specific brand in NZ.

Cheers chaps!

 

[Ttrees]

Trevanion's treatise is the best I've came across.
http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5266

 

[Fitzroy]

I used to use Freud thin curf blades on my table saw and they were excellent. I only dropped to 2.3mm kerf but they do a 2.1mm kerf variety, they get expensive though. They all have a 30mm bore but you can use a bush to reduce as required.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/28047109288

 

[recipio]

Blades for cordless saws have a thin kerf of about 1.6 mm but typically the the bore is 20 mm. I bought a 60 tooth 'Maptco ' blade with a 20 mm bore reduced my 5/8" arbor off Amazon. It is only 160 mm diameter of course but it's worth shopping around on the ' net - you never know what you will find.

 

[Doug71]

If you are going to change the blade for a thinner one than was originally supplied with the saw you will need to check that it's suitable to use with your existing riving knife. The riving knife should be thinner than the blades kerf but thicker than the blades plate.

 

[J-G]

I would also recommend Freud as a 'go to' make. I'd put up with a blade on my B&D saw for so many years until I realized that less than 10 of the 24 'tips' was still in place

After some research, replaced it with a Freud - absolutely delighted.

Looking at Toolstation though, it seems Freud don't do a 25.4mm bore (at all) though reducers are available, you have to be sure that the correct thickness is observed. It also seems that they only do one 254mm OD but there are 9 at 250mm so using one of those you lose 1mm on the max DoC.

 

[rob1693]

@pulleyt does excellent kumiko sure she could offer good advice on cutting blanks

 

[Inspector]

I would suggest if wanting a Freud blade to get their glue line rip blade for all your stock preparation and change it out for a crosscutting blade when you cut them into the smaller pieces. They make it in both thin or "standard" kerf widths and are reputed to be good. Other brands make similar blades. Since I have a SawStop I don't use any of the Freud blades blades myself so can't give you any first hand experience with them.

Pete

 

[pulleyt]

I've tried several ways of preparing thin strips of solid wood for kumiko work including a jig for use with a track saw. I've now settled on using my Axminster TS200 table saw fitted with the Axminster Axcaliber 32 tooth contract TCT blade
which produces acceptable strips in the main. It has a 2.2mm kerf and I aim for 2.3mm strips as I use the same blade to cut some of the kumiko joints.

I used to get upset that almost 50% of the board was disappearing as sawdust but I accept the waste as part of the process now. I also don't like to change the riving knife on my table saw which I'd have to do if I opted for a thin kerf blade.

To be honest the I had trouble sourcing a blade much thinner than 2.2mm anyway.

What I have found useful is a drum sander to finesse longer strips and a planing jig to finesse short strips (<100mm) should that be necessary.

@pulleyt does excellent kumiko sure she could offer good advice on cutting blanks

Thank you for the kind comment - but I'm a long haired he

 

[Jameshow]

What are Triton blades like? They will be readily available to you?

Any local business making them or importing them?

 

[Sheptonphil]

I have the same table saw and only ever use Freud 254x30 blades. It makes a massive difference. I keep three, a 24tooth rip, and 40 and 60 tooth for decent cross and sheet material cuts.
Saxton we’re ok, but Freud are far better, and out last the cheaper by three or four to one.
I’ve never had one sharpened, but probably worth a shot one day.

 

[Sachakins]

Only use Freud blade in my table saw, been a great step up from generic carp.

Have you thought about a band saw, I rip all my thin stock requirements on that.
I made a diy version of the accu slice jig, and get repeatable sub 1 mm strips out of hard woods up to 150mm thick.
My bandsaw a used old Kity 513, with blades from tuff saws.
Here's a video of the accu-slice in action.

 

[CoolNik]

I have the same table saw and only ever use Freud 254x30 blades. It makes a massive difference. I keep three, a 24tooth rip, and 40 and 60 tooth for decent cross and sheet material cuts.
Saxton we’re ok, but Freud are far better, and out last the cheaper by three or four to one.
I’ve never had one sharpened, but probably worth a shot one day.

Great news to know that you have the same TS as me. I will follow your advice regarding using the Freud blades. What kerf are the blades? I presume you are happy with these blades for fine work? Regards Robyn

 

[frankederveen]

I suspect the bore should be 30mm? It is on my Bosch saw at least. Worth double checking.

 

[Lefley]

If you are using an ultra thin blade make sure you use big washers or blade stabilizers. Cutting thin stock you will save wood with a thinner blade but you will be cutting thin strips off the side of the wood. A thin blade usually will deviate without stabilizes.

 

[rob1693]

I've tried several ways of preparing thin strips of solid wood for kumiko work including a jig for use with a track saw. I've now settled on using my Axminster TS200 table saw fitted with the Axminster Axcaliber 32 tooth contract TCT blade
which produces acceptable strips in the main. It has a 2.2mm kerf and I aim for 2.3mm strips as I use the same blade to cut some of the kumiko joints.

I used to get upset that almost 50% of the board was disappearing as sawdust but I accept the waste as part of the process now. I also don't like to change the riving knife on my table saw which I'd have to do if I opted for a thin kerf blade.

To be honest the I had trouble sourcing a blade much thinner than 2.2mm anyway.

What I have found useful is a drum sander to finesse longer strips and a planing jig to finesse short strips (<100mm) should that be necessary.


Thank you for the kind comment - but I'm a long haired he

Time to go to specsavers

 

[pulleyt]

Have you thought about a band saw, I rip all my thin stock requirements on that.
I made a diy version of the accu slice jig, and get repeatable sub 1 mm strips out of hard woods up to 150mm thick.
My bandsaw a used old Kity 513, with blades from tuff saws.

As a Kity bandsaw owner I'd be very interested in your version of the Accu Slice if you're willing to post details.

 

[Sachakins]

As a Kity bandsaw owner I'd be very interested in your version of the Accu Slice if you're willing to post details.

Hi, it's a basic simple build really. I'll get a few photos of it and send them over tomorrow.

 

[CoolNik]

Only use Freud blade in my table saw, been a great step up from generic carp.

Have you thought about a band saw, I rip all my thin stock requirements on that.
I made a diy version of the accu slice jig, and get repeatable sub 1 mm strips out of hard woods up to 150mm thick.
My bandsaw a used old Kity 513, with blades from tuff saws.
Here's a video of the accu-slice in action.

Brilliant idea! I had not even thought of using the bandsaw but have followed your link, viewed the video and now am in "on-line discussion" with the nice folks at Accu Slice. Thanks so much for the prompt. In addition, I will be changing to Freud blades for my table saw. Cheers

 

[CoolNik]

I've tried several ways of preparing thin strips of solid wood for kumiko work including a jig for use with a track saw. I've now settled on using my Axminster TS200 table saw fitted with the Axminster Axcaliber 32 tooth contract TCT blade
which produces acceptable strips in the main. It has a 2.2mm kerf and I aim for 2.3mm strips as I use the same blade to cut some of the kumiko joints.

I used to get upset that almost 50% of the board was disappearing as sawdust but I accept the waste as part of the process now. I also don't like to change the riving knife on my table saw which I'd have to do if I opted for a thin kerf blade.

To be honest the I had trouble sourcing a blade much thinner than 2.2mm anyway.

What I have found useful is a drum sander to finesse longer strips and a planing jig to finesse short strips (<100mm) should that be necessary.


Thank you for the kind comment - but I'm a long haired he

Thanks so much for your reply and for detailing your practices for preparing the thin strips. Would you consider sharing the details of the jig that you use with your track saw, as I had considered using my track saw but was concerned about getting constant repeatable cuts. Also, I would love to know what kind of planning jig you are referring to when you speaking of the finessing the short strips, as I constantly am tossing strips where I have left a blood trail from my nicely planed fingertips!!
I had found a table saw blade that has a kerf of 0.102" and there are other blades in this same series with a kerf of 0.118" - I understand that these for part of a new range of blades by CMT - branded as ITK Xtreme saw blades. The sales information on a vendors website reads "All blades are thin-kerf industrial quality blades and will deliver outstanding cut, minimal stock removal and the least possible stress on saws." I am not promoting these blades and have not yet used one but prior to getting the information about the Accu Slice system, I was going to purchase one of these blades.