Advice needed re: solid wood floor intallation

[Mizjazzi]

Hi all from a newbie on this site,

I really need a little advice about self adhesive underlay!

I have just purchased solid teak flooring, T&G, for hall and lounge. My husband and I will be fitting ourselves.The Area is only 30 odd meters
We have an existing pine Floor with many gaps and holes. (EX-Council)
It is a rental I am loath to fix it down, as there are pipes and electrics just under the floorboards.
I wanted to use self adhesive underlay from Homebase. ON special at the moment!!!

Do I still need to put down plywood sheets,or will the underlay be enough to compensate for about 2mm cupping etc.?
The teak is very heavy and we are pretty accomplished DIYer's, and will certainly fix it down where we have to with touge tite screws.
We figured that the weight of the wood would iron out any slight imperfections?
Any thoughts on this would be most welcome.
With many thanks in advance.

 

[Doug B]

Just make sure you get your first 2 runs of flooring straight & tightly fixed together before removing the plastic coating on the self adhesive underlay & the rest of the floor will go down easily.

Remember to leave an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room, if you follow the instructions that come with the flooring & underlay you shouldn`t go wrong.

 

[Mizjazzi]

Thanks for that,

We will be careful,and as I will have a bit extra, I will try it on a plank or 2 first.!!

The thing that I was most worried about was whether I need to put down plywood, or just the adhesive underlay?
It seems to be quite thin (3mm),or could I put another underlay under that, to compensate for imperfections in the old floor?

The ' expert advice' from the store I bought it from,was to only nail it to the sub floor and not use underlay at all!But he also does not know aboy the tounge tite screws,so might be a bit ' traditional'??!!!

Has anyone used the self adhesive underlay from Homebase? No brand name on the box!

Thanks again.

 

[MJ80]

Hi,

Nailing is quicker than screwing every board, and if you have to pull some into line imho nothing can really beat a flooring nailer for the job. The screws are brilliant for the edges and tight into the walls.

I really hate the adhesive underlay, get the first rows right with the expansion gap and you should be ok. Put some solid packers to the wall for the expansion gap as it can squirm a bit when you start putting it together, then remove them when your done.

Good luck

 

[Mizjazzi]

Hi,

Nailing is quicker than screwing every board, and if you have to pull some into line imho nothing can really beat a flooring nailer for the job. The screws are brilliant for the edges and tight into the walls.

I really hate the adhesive underlay, get the first rows right with the expansion gap and you should be ok. Put some solid packers to the wall for the expansion gap as it can squirm a bit when you start putting it together, then remove them when your done.

Good luck

Thanks for that,
Still going to try the self adhesive though.
Bit of a Delay (crisis), but starting tomorrow!
Got the packers and a decent block etc.
Have done a small layout, hope it works OK, cause it will look great!

 

[ProShop]

I've done some floors with the adhesive underlay, and find it quite good. You have to be careful not to pull to much cellophane from the adhesive to start with (it sticks like $%!! to a blanket). After you've got some boards down you can reuse the cellophane to make life laying the flooring even easier, but be careful it only has one side that the adhesive WON'T stick to.

The last floor I did had some cupping to the old floorboards but as the new flooring was a bit wider and a good thickness it wasn't an issue.

IMHO I would use it again against nailing or Screwing.

 

[Lons]

I've put several down using the adhesive underlay and have no problems with it. The first job was 7 years ago consisting of 3 large rooms total around 200 M2 of oak. The floor is a sound today as the day it was laid.
You've been given good advice especially about getting the firt 2 rows spot on and the "one sided" plastic. What I do is mark with a felt tip which is the wrong side. I also use the cheap strap clamps used to lay laminate flooring to pull the boards tight before exposing the adhesive backing. Important as it's impossible to do so after it's stuck - don't ask how I know

Keep the offcuts BTW as it's surprising how useful they can be. Great for the base of ornaments, box lining even used some as draught strip.

If you're fixing across the old floorboards you should be ok but if the same direction, you might get some movement. Where there are gaps in the existing floor I would always lay ply (even 6mm would help) as any moist air from below can affect the new floor.

Is your reason for the underlay that you want to take the floor with you if you move? Can do so but you'll find it's a real b*****d to remove from the back of the boards.

Bob

 

[misterfish]

I've used the equivalent stuff for doing most of our upstairs - it worked well. I had the same problem with pipes and wires just below the existing boards and didn't want to use nails. I spent some time ensuring the old flooring was reasonable flat and had to do several joist repairs where butchery had been carried out by plumbers and electricians in the past, but small uneveness didn't cause any problems. I did use flooring clamps to keep the boards tight which had adjustable edges to allow the first boards to be accurately positioned - they are like http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=108842 if you're interested in using them I'll try and find them and send them to you.

Take note of the comment about the stickiness of the underlay that Proshop mentions!

Misterfish

 

[Mizjazzi]

I've used the equivalent stuff for doing most of our upstairs - it worked well. I had the same problem with pipes and wires just below the existing boards and didn't want to use nails. I spent some time ensuring the old flooring was reasonable flat and had to do several joist repairs where butchery had been carried out by plumbers and electricians in the past, but small uneveness didn't cause any problems. I did use flooring clamps to keep the boards tight which had adjustable edges to allow the first boards to be accurately positioned - they are like http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=108842 if you're interested in using them I'll try and find them and send them to you.

Take note of the comment about the stickiness of the underlay that Proshop mentions!

Misterfish

WOW,
Thank you so very much,

That is for the reassurance and the offer.

However, if you have them available it would be very handy, let me know if you can find them, and what you want for them?!
I did go and look for clamps, but none available at local stores,and was going to look online.

I did cut off a length and try the underlay. I wanted to check if it would hold, so will be careful!!
As an obsessive crafter, I have used lots of single and double sided tape, so have a bit of experience there.
I also did a dummy run yesterday, and it looks real good. Tha teak is very heavy and with the underlay, it sits nice and flt, no rocking that I can make out.
Regards and have a good day!

 

[Mizjazzi]

I've put several down using the adhesive underlay and have no problems with it. The first job was 7 years ago consisting of 3 large rooms total around 200 M2 of oak. The floor is a sound today as the day it was laid.
You've been given good advice especially about getting the firt 2 rows spot on and the "one sided" plastic. What I do is mark with a felt tip which is the wrong side. I also use the cheap strap clamps used to lay laminate flooring to pull the boards tight before exposing the adhesive backing. Important as it's impossible to do so after it's stuck - don't ask how I know

Keep the offcuts BTW as it's surprising how useful they can be. Great for the base of ornaments, box lining even used some as draught strip.

If you're fixing across the old floorboards you should be ok but if the same direction, you might get some movement. Where there are gaps in the existing floor I would always lay ply (even 6mm would help) as any moist air from below can affect the new floor.

Is your reason for the underlay that you want to take the floor with you if you move? Can do so but you'll find it's a real b*****d to remove from the back of the boards.

Bob

Hi there thanks,
Advice will be well used.
I'm fixing opposite direction to floorboards anyway. Did test for stickiness also.
I am using the underlay for 2 reasons, in case landlord has a fit at me nailing it down, and I would have to remove it if I move,or get charged for removal!!!
Also there is wiring and plumbing underneath.
I'm an avid recylcler,so will definitely use any extra, but had not thought of using it as draught excluder, Brilliant!!

Thanks again,
Have a brilliant day.
Mizjazzi

 

[Mizjazzi]

I've done some floors with the adhesive underlay, and find it quite good. You have to be careful not to pull to much cellophane from the adhesive to start with (it sticks like $%!! to a blanket). After you've got some boards down you can reuse the cellophane to make life laying the flooring even easier, but be careful it only has one side that the adhesive WON'T stick to.

The last floor I did had some cupping to the old floorboards but as the new flooring was a bit wider and a good thickness it wasn't an issue.

IMHO I would use it again against nailing or Screwing.

Thanks very much,
Will take note.
Glad of the reassurance on my choices.
Mizjazzi

 

[mseries]

I've used the equivalent stuff for doing most of our upstairs - it worked well. I had the same problem with pipes and wires just below the existing boards and didn't want to use nails. I spent some time ensuring the old flooring was reasonable flat and had to do several joist repairs where butchery had been carried out by plumbers and electricians in the past, but small uneveness didn't cause any problems. I did use flooring clamps to keep the boards tight which had adjustable edges to allow the first boards to be accurately positioned - they are like http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=108842 if you're interested in using them I'll try and find them and send them to you.

Take note of the comment about the stickiness of the underlay that Proshop mentions!

Misterfish

WOW,
Thank you so very much,

That is for the reassurance and the offer.

However, if you have them available it would be very handy, let me know if you can find them, and what you want for them?!
!

I'm going to be doing some flooring in Jan/Feb so if you are finished with the flooring clamps by then and would like to sell them on ......

 

[misterfish]

I've found the clamps

Instead of selling the clamps I would rather give them to you and request you make a donation to charity. Then when you are done with them pass them on to Mseries also with the request of a donation to charity. Then if others need them they could continue to be passed on in the same way.

Misterfish

 

[Mizjazzi]

I've found the clamps

Instead of selling the clamps I would rather give them to you and request you make a donation to charity. Then when you are done with them pass them on to Mseries also with the request of a donation to charity. Then if others need them they could continue to be passed on in the same way.

Misterfish

Thank you so very much.
That is brilliant.!!!
I will pm you with my details if I can. Kept timing out just now,so not sure if it went through or not!
Have a great day,
Mizjazzi

 

[misterfish]

PM received OK and I'm in the process of packing them up.

Misterfish

 

[Mizjazzi]

PM received OK and I'm in the process of packing them up.

Misterfish

Thank you sooo much once again, they will be most useful and appreciated. look forward to starting! And finishing!
I'll even take some pics.
Mizjazzi

 

[mseries]

I received these clamps from Mizjazzi and I have now completed my job so they are on offer for the next person. I'll send them to you, you make a donation to charity and offer them to the next person.

Please email me as I don't get much time on here to check messages these days