Advice about windows
- Thread starter Gemma
- Start date
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HOJ
Established Member
With a Fensa sign off you should have an insurance backed warranty, and could use that as leverage for any recourse.
RogerS
Established Member
FENSA is a good idea especially if/when you come to sell and the buyers' solicitor is switched on and needs the bit of paper. You may find you have to fight hard to get it as IIRC the supplier has to pay a bit of dosh for it.
You could threaten them with contacting Fensa for a 'check' visit. You might also like to check that they actually still ARE registered with Fensa.
You could threaten them with contacting Fensa for a 'check' visit. You might also like to check that they actually still ARE registered with Fensa.
Sgian Dubh
Established Member
I've got to admit I'm rather surprised the maker incorporated a forked and wedged M&T in that bottom rail to stile joint ... and then cut away a chunk of the joint along the bottom edge of the door, effectively transforming the lower forked section into a bridle joint. Cutting away like this surely compromises the joint's integrity.Gemma":3bfggeu0 said:
The rail's not so wide (150 mm maybe?) that a forked M&T even seems appropriate; more normal I think would be an M&T with a square haunch on the tenon to fill the panel groove and taking up to a shy third of the outer (bottom edge) of the rail's width. Slainte.
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Just saying what I see.
Looks like off the shelf doors with a pairmaker applied. Height of doors reduced to allow for a cut down frame where maybe before there was just a bar threshold set in floor ? On door frame cill another seal in the vacant groove will help a bit. The window problems are to me, just the start of more issues to come. No two ways about it they got it seriously wrong on the bottom. It will undoubtedly get worse with the prospect of water following the draught brush grooves into the bottom of the frame and interior of the house.
Have you noticed the join in the bottom where water is causing a line along the work? Sorry to be putting a downer on this but I cannot see a better option of saving these windows than extensive reworking of bottom, even if thats possible.
Andy
Looks like off the shelf doors with a pairmaker applied. Height of doors reduced to allow for a cut down frame where maybe before there was just a bar threshold set in floor ? On door frame cill another seal in the vacant groove will help a bit. The window problems are to me, just the start of more issues to come. No two ways about it they got it seriously wrong on the bottom. It will undoubtedly get worse with the prospect of water following the draught brush grooves into the bottom of the frame and interior of the house.
Have you noticed the join in the bottom where water is causing a line along the work? Sorry to be putting a downer on this but I cannot see a better option of saving these windows than extensive reworking of bottom, even if thats possible.
Andy
johnnyb
Established Member
this doesnt shock me. I went to look at some garage doors( double bifold)
the makers a large joinery outfit had cut the solid sapele panels very tight. well these doors joints were open 15mm and the doors had twisted like pringles. after months of cajoling the original makers came back and put it right. they were saying it hasn't been painted properly etc etc.
I went to measure up for copying a window in prime oak exactly the same no angle on the cill rebate. makes manufacture simple but makers of old paid great attention to the bottom bit of a window often putting double angled rebates(pre draught seals)
the makers a large joinery outfit had cut the solid sapele panels very tight. well these doors joints were open 15mm and the doors had twisted like pringles. after months of cajoling the original makers came back and put it right. they were saying it hasn't been painted properly etc etc.
I went to measure up for copying a window in prime oak exactly the same no angle on the cill rebate. makes manufacture simple but makers of old paid great attention to the bottom bit of a window often putting double angled rebates(pre draught seals)
johnnyb
Established Member
I learnt to make a window using coleys sticky btw.
