Acquired some fresh walnut logs today - any tips?

[PAC]

The tree surgeons came to my workplace today and pruned a large walnut tree that was touching the building. I naturally whizzed outside and asked them to save me a few bits. They kindly sawed them into 2-3ft chunks.

What's the best way to deal with them now? I want to make goblets, vases and bowls out them. Should I seal the end grain (can I use exterior varnish rather than proper end-grain sealer?). I don't really have any means of easily splitting the logs - will the wood be ruined if I leave it whole?

Would appreciate some advice! Thanks in advance.

 

[cornucopia]

hello
i leave the ends on my logs but if you want to seal them the best thing to use is any oil based paints.
the wood wont be ruined if left whole, if anything i prefer it that way.

 

[PAC]

Hi,

Do you find that the end of the timber splits if left unsealed? I've seen many logs on forest floors with major splits in the end grain, so thought sealing would be better. Also, is it best to ask the tree surgeons to cut the logs into 2ft chunks or is longer (or shorter) better?

 

[Paul.J]

Nice little haul there Paul
I got a couple of Walnut branches not so long back about 4-5' long 4" dia and have just left them as is,in a dark cool well ventilated area,and so far i have just got small splits on the ends.
Just depends how soon you want to turn them i suppose as to what you do with the timber :?:

 

[TEP]

Hi Paul.

If the dia. of the logs is much over 4"-5", and you try to season to dry, they will split, even if you treat the ends. If you wish to dry them leave them a lot longer than the dia. so as you can have some wood to cut off the ends and hopefully get back to sound timber.

Easier if you want to turn the wood wet. Just seal the ends as they are, then cut to size as and when you want a piece. Re-seal the cut end if you are not going to use the whole log in one go. Also keep the logs cool and out of the sun and wind, slow and easy and you may just get away with it in the log.

As C has already said, use any oil based paint/varnish, don't waste your time with emulsions. Give the ends two coats if you have time, and good luck!

 

[paulm]

Leave them as long as possible consistent with being able to handle them, can be very heavy when wet like all timbers !

Paint the ends with oil based paint, pva or somilar, the idea being to block the ends of the straw like fibres so that evaporation slows and splitting is therefore reduced. Haven't tried varnish and I think it would have some effect but suspect not as good as suitable paint or pva though no proof of that.

Splitting would be reduced further still if the logs were cut down the pith longways, but not essential and some turnings need logs in the round, but be aware loss rates may be higher if left whole both of the logs and of worked pieces from them, but worth leaving some that way nonetheless I would think.

Happy turning !

Cheers, Paul

 

[PAC]

Thanks Tam. If the wood is not turned green, should it really be split to relieve some of the internal tension?

 

[TEP]

Chisel has just left some good advice. If it was up to me and I wanted dry timber I would cut them down the middle, and still seal the ends. At least that way you can control where the cut is. If it cracks lord only knows what you could be left with.

As has been suggested split some, and leave some in the round, and test it out. What have you got to lose if you got the timber for nowt'.

 

[PAC]

Thanks Paul. I'll try painting the ends with oil-based paint. I want to try and preserve the darker heartwood so will leave them whole and hope for the best.

I may be getting some yew shortly so should this be treated in the same way or does yew have its own peculiarities?

 

[cornucopia]

Hi,

Do you find that the end of the timber splits if left unsealed? I've seen many logs on forest floors with major splits in the end grain, so thought sealing would be better. Also, is it best to ask the tree surgeons to cut the logs into 2ft chunks or is longer (or shorter) better?

yes it does but as has already been mentioned i keep mine in the shade and coverd with old dust sheets to reduce the airflow and trap any moisture as i want them to stay green for as long as possible, if the ends do split i just trim of the splits and cut what i want from the sound wood.

I always try to get my logs in as long-a lengths as are liftable!!

 

[PAC]

As has been suggested split some, and leave some in the round, and test it out. What have you got to lose if you got the timber for nowt'.

Ok, sounds good. I don't have a chainsaw or an axe. What's the best way to split a log of this size?

 

[cornucopia]

looky here about half way down the thread at how i store my wood.

 

[PAC]

yes it does but as has already been mentioned i keep mine in the shade and coverd with old dust sheets to reduce the airflow and trap any moisture as i want them to stay green for as long as possible, if the ends do split i just trim of the splits and cut what i want from the sound wood.

I always try to get my logs in as long-a lengths as are liftable!!

Ok, do you prefer to turn green and then dry, rather than fully seasoning before turning? If making goblets, for example, is the ideal to cut the wood up into 3x3 inch by 6 in chunks, seal the end grain and dry slowly in this state?

 

[PAC]

looky here about half way down the thread at how i store my wood.

:shock: I'd never get my wife to agree to that :shock:

 

[Paul.J]

Paul.
Have a look at This if you can.I think it is a really good book with loads of info.Probably get it cheaper at Amazon or Ebay.
If you decide to turn some green,say a bowl, make it an even thinnish finish all round so it dries equally all round.There will probably be some movement when drying out which i look forward to seeing how it ends up
Same can be said for a goblet,just cut enough over the required finish length for it to be held in the chuck.
Just turn some and enjoy it

 

[PAC]

Paul.
Have a look at This if you can.I think it is a really good book with loads of info.Probably get it cheaper at Amazon or Ebay.
If you decide to turn some green,say a bowl, make it an even thinnish finish all round so it dries equally all round.There will probably be some movement when drying out which i look forward to seeing how it ends up
Same can be said for a goblet,just cut enough over the required finish length for it to be held in the chuck.
Just turn some and enjoy it

Thanks for that Paul.J. Just ordered a new copy from abebooks.co.uk for £11.23. Looks like a good read.

 

[cornucopia]

yes it does but as has already been mentioned i keep mine in the shade and coverd with old dust sheets to reduce the airflow and trap any moisture as i want them to stay green for as long as possible, if the ends do split i just trim of the splits and cut what i want from the sound wood.

I always try to get my logs in as long-a lengths as are liftable!!

Ok, do you prefer to turn green and then dry, rather than fully seasoning before turning? If making goblets, for example, is the ideal to cut the wood up into 3x3 inch by 6 in chunks, seal the end grain and dry slowly in this state?

yes i do prefer to turn whilist the wood is still green, but you need dry wood for box's and goblets so i tend to cut my goblet blanks when i'm cutting my hollow form blanks out of the waste wood furthest away from the pith, i dont cut them in 6" lengths i cut them in 18-20" lengths- i will not use fresh green wood for this purpose instead i use wood which is semi green maybe 18months after felling this way the blank is less likely to split-and yes i do seal the ends of these blanks.

for box's and concentric bowls i rough turn first.

 

[PAC]

Hi all,

My copy of Turning Green Wood arrived today. From what I've seen so far, it looks like an excellent book. Thanks for the recommendation, Paul.J

 

[Paul.J]

Glad you like it Paul