AC400 Record Power air filter - not working

[brocher]

I have an AC400 Record Power air filter - bought in December 2022. I hadn't been in the workshop for a few weeks due to the cold, and have found out that the air filter has stopped working. Have checked the fuses - internal and plug to see if there is a problem, But that hasn't solved it.

Anyone have any insights before I get in touch with Record Power? Thanks

 

[RobNichols]

Mine just stopped working one day. It was less than a year old. Called Record Power and they were really helpful and arranged a replacement.

 

[Bingy man]

If it’s under warranty then you have checked the basics so leave it to rp. If out of warranty then you would need to check every connection is sound . Then depending on your electrical knowledge and testing equipment it’s a case of fault finding until you identify the problem. However no offence in any way but if you’re not sure then take it to an expert. Good luck

 

[TRITON]

Thats the one with the remote isnt it ?

So the problem could be the remote, or maybe a capacitor in the main machine.

I think try one simple initial test. Smack the remote off the bench a couple of times and try it again. Then its a case of opening the remote up, check to see if those batteries have corroded, and if youve a voltmeter thing see if current is reaching the board. Same goes for the main unit. Look closely see if anything is obvious, and use your nose to detect any ozoney burning smells that might indicate something has burnt out.

Dont know if this is any help, but if its a capacitor , and im in no way electrically minded, but this looks relatively simple to do, replace it with another.

 

[brocher]

Thanks for the replies. I will do a quick check tomorrow when I can. Since it was bought in December 2022 it will still be under its 5 year warranty. Bought from D&M Tools back then

 

[donturner]

I had the same problem, control board stopped working. Contacted Record and they sent out a replacement free of charge. 10min job to swap it.

The remote only works about 20% of the time on mine so I usually just reach up and press the physical buttons. Build quality and the control system design is not great on these machines.

 

[Algarin]

I had the same problem, control board stopped working. Contacted Record and they sent out a replacement free of charge. 10min job to swap it.

The remote only works about 20% of the time on mine so I usually just reach up and press the physical buttons. Build quality and the control system design is not great on these machines.

You can try to remedy this by opening it back up (Or lifting up the glued on front to check) and checking that the reciever diode has not ended up behind the metal plate, but sits in the little punched opening. Especially on older versions of the board it can bend out of position when installing.

 

[brocher]

I got in touch with Record Power and they have come back and said this is a common fault with this model! And since it is under warranty they will provide a free replacement! I await further details from them now on how this will happen. So perhaps a great result

 

[thikone]

Mine stopped switching to speed 2 and 3 after one or two years of mostly sitting plugged in, used it rarely...

I looked at the internet, disassembled the thing, looked at the control board and decided to make my own instead of going the warranty road.
It has cheaply engineered board that constantly producing heat with its voltage divider substitute for low voltage power supply.
So I manufactured my own control board of the same size with the same connectors around Arduino Nano module and proper power supply module.
It works with original remote and has buttons and indicators in the same place.
Even experimented with audio signals to indicate different modes (speed 1, 2 3 and timer 1, 2, 4 hours).



Even 3d printed a new cover and a grid for lights:



Works for two years already. And if something goes bad again I have enough parts left to fix it really quick.
Needless to say it is a less fire hazard too as it does not heat as much.

 

[Puggers]

@brocher you’ve been lucky then. I’ve had 3 replacement remotes and am now on my 2nd replacement PCB (it’s on the way to me now).
I’ve not been offered a replacement machine but given mine is also under warranty still albeit a little older than yours, you can guess what I’ll be wanting if this new board goes wrong too!
That said, the peeps at RP have been helpful (but not overly helpful enough to send me a new machine….)
I shall retain this thread as evidence

 

[donturner]

Mine stopped switching to speed 2 and 3 after one or two years of mostly sitting plugged in, used it rarely...

I looked at the internet, disassembled the thing, looked at the control board and decided to make my own instead of going the warranty road.
It has cheaply engineered board that constantly producing heat with its voltage divider substitute for low voltage power supply.
So I manufactured my own control board of the same size with the same connectors around Arduino Nano module and proper power supply module.
It works with original remote and has buttons and indicators in the same place.
Even experimented with audio signals to indicate different modes (speed 1, 2 3 and timer 1, 2, 4 hours).

View attachment 177460

Even 3d printed a new cover and a grid for lights:
View attachment 177461
View attachment 177462

Works for two years already. And if something goes bad again I have enough parts left to fix it really quick.
Needless to say it is a less fire hazard too as it does not heat as much.

That's incredible. Would you be able to share the PCB design, BOM and STL files (on GitHub maybe)? Or if you had a spare PCB I'd happily pay for it. I'd love to do this conversion.

 

[fezman]

Just about to try my first replacement remote today. RP also sent out the replacement board in error, so I have both to try if it's not just the remote.

Also would like to complement the staff and CS at Record Power. They have been really prompt dealing with this.

 

[Roland]

It’s often a capacitor failure. It’s an easy swap.

 

[thikone]

That's incredible. Would you be able to share the PCB design, BOM and STL files (on GitHub maybe)? Or if you had a spare PCB I'd happily pay for it. I'd love to do this conversion.

Sure, I don't mind sharing it.

Though, I would go with version 1.2 instead, as in 1.0 version that I installed in my unit I have Arduino placed too close to the screw that holds the cover (that's why there is a gap of light in the middle of the case on the second photo). And the buzz as a bit too close to the wall and has some annoying resonance because of that. I did redesign the PCB but haven't order it to be manufactored yet.

Created a repository with version 1.2 here: https://github.com/thikone/AC400Controller
Will export Fusion 360 file for the cover once I make it work again...

I have also aquired some extra parts for this board as part of my shopping addiction: connectors, relays, buzz, PSU, IR reciever, buttons and SMD parts.
Should be able to assemble PCB version 1.0 with them or can order a new PCB version 1.2 and assemble that. Would be a good test for my new JBC soldering station!
Will take some of my time and effort but is possible.

 

[thikone]

It’s often a capacitor failure. It’s an easy swap.

You mean on the orignal board? Then maybe you can share a picture of which one, just to have it documented here...

I destroyed my board while trying to diagnose/fix it... fried the chip (MCU) with too high voltage (relays are 9V, iirc).

 

[graham88]

My remote stopped working randomly, I was happy to ignore this as the remote range is pretty dire anyway. Few months later the unit just didn't start up with the buttons on the rear of the unit. I quickly removed the fuse from the back to check it, fuse was fine so I put it back in. Upon doing so the machine beeped at me. I turned it on and it worked fine, even the remote had jumped back into life.

 

[brocher]

Well Record Power sent me a new circuit board to replace the old one. It arrived this morning. I have just been down to my wee workshop to unscrew the panel. There are 4 screws. And looking at the parts diagram it's clear that it screws into 4 nuts on the rear.

BUT - the darned screws aren't unscrewing from their backnut! The nuts must be turning inside (as they can't be welded or glued to the mainframe) and I can't get access to that nut! I haven tried it yet, but will need to somehow insert a very think knife to start with so that it acts as a reverse clamp so that I can unscrew the 4 screws! To be honest, not sure buying this was a good idea back in 2022! Although I can see from the filters how much dust it has taken out of the air as well!.

Will let you know how it goes

 

[brocher]

Today I fitted the replacement circuit board which RP had sent me (very quickly as well - impressed). I managed to sort out getting access to the circuit board. Had to take the whole end off, which I wasn't expecting to have to do. But anyway the whole thing is now back operational. So will see how long this board lasts before it conks out as others have said. I do wonder how much this particular model is costing Record Power if the circuit board is so prone to failures!

But thanks again guys for your insights. And of course thanks to the guys at RP for responding so promptly

 

[donturner]

@thikone PCBs arrived from JLCPCB today. What IR receiver module did you use?

 

[thikone]

@thikone PCBs arrived from JLCPCB today. What IR receiver module did you use?

I don't remember which one I have mounted there exactly. I think original that comes with AC400 will work or any similar one that works with Arduino will. From my shopping history I can also see that I bought some called "KY-022 Infrared IR Sensor Receiver Module for Arduino".

Same goes for other parts - they have to work with Arduino. Like 5V power supply module, 5V relays, 5V active buzzer. Connectors can be taken from original one or search for VH 3.96 mm on AliExpress.

Also I think I had to reduce resistors value that go to transistors base - to 1k or maybe less. As with 4k7 it was not opening enough for the relay (SRD-05VDC-SL-A needs like 70 mA or voltage drop on transistor better be 1V or less). Maybe I even ended up with 500 or 200 Ohm in the end.