A trusted source: hammer handles?

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SLM

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I’ve a few hammers in need of new handles. Naturally, I’ve cast my eyes over what the internet can offer, but I’m hoping for a steer toward a trusted source of good quality items.

One of the handles I need is an 18” one for my framing hammer; the only one I’ve found is a stiletto replacement handle, for £25, which seems steep compared to, for instance an 18” engineers handle for £6.50. But what I can’t judge from the various outlets is the quality of the items!

Anyone been down this road?
 
My only suggestion is look at the grain direction and try to get as straight as possible. I made one once using red oak, which was straight, but possibly medullary rays caused it to snap just below the head (And it was a pin hammer too), so maybe oak isnt the best stuff and go for a more traditional hickory, which I believe has been used for hundreds of years as hammer/axe handles.
 
Yes, it’s hickory that I’m looking at. I could make them, of course. But I’d rather spend the time working on the numerous projects already underway.

Looking at the grain is a good start, in theory. But the images presented tend to be rather generic, even if they’re. Is sufficient resolution to make a judgment.
 
I've saved a bit of hedge-row ash occasionally. Used it for a mallet and a big chisel handle. Bigger pieces I turned into indian clubs.
 
do you have the skills to make one? it will always be better than one you can buy imo
 
here's my offering coz there's no wooden handles here other than those for garden tools and I still need at least 6 more different sizes and a flat sided/oval one for my dads claw hammer....
the garden tool handles/shaft feel very light and a decent size engineer's hammer shaft is to big to make one from them....
Found one that will replace a Brit style pick handle....this will test it metal/wood....I'll let u know....
I have a fetish for hammers sadly.....
This one is made from Carob....the bark is very thin, more like a skin really .....and a hard wood....???....
The knobbly bit on the end feels comfortable when in use.......beside it has a little character......
this feels so right in the hand it's one of my fav......
I did trim some Carob in the garden just after arriving but stored in the garage it got some kind'a worm.....
The very latest trimmings has had a paint on preservative for storage protection....
yes very sad.......
next to my trusty Estwing....

PS....how many of you hold the hammer shaft at the end when in use..........or use it the girls way......hahaha.....

IMG_9161.jpeg
 
do you have the skills to make one? it will always be better than one you can buy imo

I would tend to agree, however as I said above, whilst I am able to make one, my time is short, and I would rather use it on existing projects/tasks
 
My local hardware shop, Nuneaton Toolbox, has them, and wedges too. Mind you, they sell pretty much everything. Re-hafted a hammer with one of theirs some years ago, seems decent enough. Old fashioned shop like this is probably your best bet if you can find one. NT has a few sister shops hereabouts too.
 
do you have the skills to make one? it will always be better than one you can buy imo
I think, and I'm having to stretch my memory back a very long way here, but I think factory made tool handles are compressed (same as cricket bats) to make them stronger. Something not easily done at home.
 
I think, and I'm having to stretch my memory back a very long way here, but I think factory made tool handles are compressed (same as cricket bats) to make them stronger. Something not easily done at home.
I seem to have read that fitting the handle is a bit technical and I've never attempted it on a serious hammer. One or two new ones instead. They aren't expensive.
 
take extra care about the fitting of the handle to the head.......
I also polish the inside of the head with a die grinder just to smooth things out.....
when fitting the head I use a little oilive oil on the shaft and it get's pressed in on my workshop hyd press.....
never had one come loose....
fitting said shaft to head gets better with practice.....
hate fiberglass handles.....
 
I wouldn't say it's technical, just common sense and a bit of skill. The way I was taught was:
  • Clean crap from inside head.
  • De-varnish the handle unless you like them shiny.
  • Plan wedges.
  • Trim end of handle so it's a snug fit.
  • The inside of the head is tapered towards the middle so you need to taper the handle to be similar, but the part that goes past where the head tapers out again needs to be parallel or too much wedging is needed.
  • Ensure you haven't now made it twisted!
  • Make a saw cut into the end of the handle, usually on its long axis, so it goes a little past where the outside of the head will be.
  • Tap it into place.
  • Ensure head on the right way.
  • Hold the hammer vertically in front of you with the head at the bottom. No support is needed.
  • Get your big mallet, start gentle and then beat seven kinds of carp out of the top end of the handle. Keep the blows straight.
  • Don't hit your hand, I can testify it's a big time waster...
  • Give it a few more whacks for good measure. Inertia is all you need at the head end. This won't damage the handle.
  • Inspect your handiwork. Looks good, yes?
  • Cut a hardwood wedge and drive it into the saw cut.
  • Saw the excess handle+wedge off..
  • Get 1 or 2 metal hammer wedges and drive in at right angles to the wooden one.
Works for all sizes and types of hammers where balance is not an issue. Works for axes if you're careful.
When a broken handle or it's replacement was being talked about, it was referred to as a haft, and the process as "re-hafting". Which is tidier than "re-handling" I suppose.
 
Hey Clogs... I even hold a 4lb lump hammer in the correct fashion because I am Manly. Hngrrrr! I hold girls completely differently...
 
My Dad used to say don't choke the hammer, as I grew up I held it further up the handle, but when doing light tapping find myself choking it again. I guess it's automatic adjusment of the lever moment required. When I nod my head you hit it.
 
Carters still produce very good hickory handles but no longer sell direct to the public. I buy mine from Torne Valley Farmers Supermarket, but more often than not, I get them from car boot sales. If you go down this route, always worth looking out for a cheap sledge with a good hickory handle, this will give you hickory stock for two or three handles ... and a pile of hammer heads ;<). I have gone pretty much every week for 30 odd years and I simply buy them when I see them and never run out..
On ebay , greenfingersstore2015 has a decent selection of Carters handles, but a stockist nearby would save you on post and packing.
Might be worth ringing Carters and asking for your nearest stockist
Very satisfying making your own handles. Build them a bit long and over thick then use them a while and trim them down till they feel really comfortable in your hand. This is also very true for new axe handles. I do most roughing out by eye with an angle grinder fitted with 40 grit flap disc, progressing from square, to octagonal, and finally 'round' or oval cross section and then finish with cabinet scraper. Spoke shave, draw knife or wood rasps will also get the job done.
I have made a few octagonal handles lately and find these better for accurate hammering. I don't know any supplier that makes them

Dave
 
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