A PhillyPlane review

[aldel]

Having just passed one of those big "o" birthdays I was by chance lucky to receive a rather pretty little thing from Phil Edwards.

Especially designed and made for me from Pao Rosa by our very own Philly. Phil has kindly given this plane to me and I have rather naughtily looked the gift horse in the mouth and written a little review on it. Rather than duplicate the review here why not wonder over to http://www.aldel.co.uk/Reviews11.htm and take a look?
I am very impressed and if this is the sort of effort that Phil is putting into his new venture then I am sure it will be a success.

Thanks Phil

 

[ByronBlack]

I Concur. I recently took delivery of a philly special - also in the same wood, and have been using it for a few days on some real tough grain. I will be adding my review and experiences in short while. In the meantime, all I can see is: forget HNT, Knight etc.. get yourself a Philly!

 

[Karl]

In the meantime, all I can see is: forget HNT, Knight etc.. get yourself a Philly!

High praise indeed! And I totally agree.

I too am awaiting PP's latest offerings. Will do a post when they arrive.

Cheers

Karl

 

[bugbear]

Having just passed one of those big "o" birthdays I was by chance lucky to receive a rather pretty little thing from Phil Edwards.


Especially designed and made for me from Pao Rosa by our very own Philly. Phil has kindly given this plane to me and I have rather naughtily looked the gift horse in the mouth and written a little review on it. Rather than duplicate the review here why not wonder over to http://www.aldel.co.uk/Reviews11.htm and take a look?
I am very impressed and if this is the sort of effort that Phil is putting into his new venture then I am sure it will be a success.

Thanks Phil

Interesting result on end grain, given that it's a high (ish) EP plane.

BugBear

 

[Waka]

Well done Philly, looks like you've struck a nich in the UK market, lets hope it takes off.

 

[Philly]

Thanks Gents! Glad you like your plane, Alan

BB - It is surprising how well high pitch planes work on end grain. I make my shoulder planes at 60 degrees and, although common knowledge says low angle should be better, the high angle gives a superb result ( as the picture shows).
Cheers
Philly

 

[bugbear]

Thanks Gents! Glad you like your plane, Alan

BB - It is surprising how well high pitch planes work on end grain. I make my shoulder planes at 60 degrees and, although common knowledge says low angle should be better, the high angle gives a superb result ( as the picture shows).
Cheers
Philly

I suspect they're working (due to fabulous quality) despite their high angle...

BugBear

 

[Philly]

Ahh....that must be it, Paul :lol:
Cheers
Philly

 

[Anonymous]

I suspect they're working (due to fabulous quality) despite their high angle...

BugBear

Not so sure

My #9 works much better on the shooting board with a 38 degree bevel.......

 

[David C]

I like to use a tiny back bevel which raises bench plane EP to 70 degrees, for hard, interlocked, long grain on Doussie, Rosewoods etc.

Was astonished to find one year that this planed the end grain very well. Fine shavings of course.

I would not expect high angles to work well on a soft wood like Sycamore?? What do others find?

David

 

[giacomo]

I always loved and used metal planes and the only wooden planes I use are the moulding ones I built in the last years.

But to see this little, lovely and useful plane I ask myself if is not time to try something new (or old?).

thanks Philly

 

[Pekka Huhta]

I would not expect high angles to work well on a soft wood like Sycamore?? What do others find?

On baltic pine or spruce you'll need a very acute angle, scraping won't do. On very hard, old, slow grow pine it does not matter, but the usual stuff you get won't get planed properly without the sharpest angle.

It took me a while to figure this out: there is so much talk about an usual smoother being an OK substitute to a mitre plane that I really was wondering what I did wrong. A #4 or a #4½ is going to work with soft woods, yes, but you'll get tearout and the surface is far from good no matter how sharp the iron is. But it's up to what wood you use

When I have to finish end grain moldings on soft woods I have a trick: I dip the end in shellac and let it harden. It gives enough strength to the wood that I can actually use the sam molding plane to do the ruff work with the molding plane and finish it with outcannel chisels and a file. I did that windowsill last year and haven't painted it yet, but you may see the shellac dip line on the end of the molding. And additionally the leftover shellac on the molding works as a brilliant barrier under the paint so I don't have to paint it over any more than long-grain edges.



I used the same thing with my competition cupboard at
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=18644

Sorry, can't link to the exact post, but if interested, scroll down 2/3 of the story. Here are the pics for the busy ones :wink:




Both of the examples are on moldings, but the same applies to straight end grain on soft woods, or ones prone to tearout. Not on long-grain though (I guess). Actually I haven't even tried but I doubt it would work on all occasions.

To get to the original subject Philly's small smoother seems lovely. I have always had a soft spot for small planes and another for coffin-shaped planes, so that one is really a gem.

Pekka

 

[David C]

Pekka,

Nice tip,

Thank you,

David