A bodgers workbench

[user 29368]

Hi, just joined the forum as im about to start building a workbench for the garage (without a workbench to build it on). Once complete i want to teach myself how to dove tail properly and go from there.

Ive got a load of 2x4 for the frame and some nice PAR Redwood 3x2 for the top which will be laminated. Bench will be approx. 1700mm long 620mm deep and 950mm high. With a woodwork vice on the left.

I need some advice please...I dont have any sash clamps to glue the top with and i wonder if i use a pair of board at the ends and middle to sandwich the laminations keeping it all level if i could use ratchet straps across the width to hold it all while the glue sets? (would make sure straps dont contact the top and bottom face of the work top).

Does this sound workable? Id rather not spend £100+ on 8 or so 900mm clamps at this stage, although if push comes to shove I'll have to.

Cheers for any pointers.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Welcome. You could probably find someone reasonably close to you who'd let you use the clamps for a day, but failing that you could always screw and glue the 3 x 2s together one by one - so long as you know where the screws are if you need to bore dog holes or anything. You'll never plane the top down to the centre line.

 

[MikeG.]

You'll be fine with some medium-duty ratchet straps, but I'd want 5 along that length. Four at the very least. You also have to think very carefully about how you arrange the straps, and how you protect the edges of the timber. The straps will crush the edges easily.

However, you really should have some sash clamps. They're infinitely useful. Get them on Ebay, second hand.

 

[novocaine]

Make a couple of wedge clamps (reckon you'll get away with 5 and when your done you can make them in to something else). they don't need to be as posh as these (not mine), but you get the idea.

Glue the top in 3 steps, front half, back half then middle, will help with squish out and you can get away with less pressure as your gluing up fewer joints at once.

my bench is made of similar materials. I made the top first and set it on trestles to act as a bench while I made the rest, you'll quickly learn that perfectly flat isn't needed for most of it so as long as you get somewhere near you'll be right for making up the legs. I did have a suitable number of F clamps to make mine though (cheap rolson ones no less)

my bench, because I like to post the picture.

The bench by David Rees, on Flickr

 

[thetyreman]

you'll probably need the clamps in the end anyway for other projects, I got some cheap ones on ebay like you was reluctant to pay it, they work ok though and have been used a lot, I don't regret it.

 

[Fitzroy]

I’ve done something like this before when I’ve not had a clamp long enough. You could bodge up a clamp quite easily. However as many have said you’ll never have enough clamps once you start making stuff so you may as well start building your collection now.

F.

 

[user 29368]

Hi, thanks very much for the useful replies.
The general message here is to stop being tight and buy some clamps.

I already have a bunch of f-clamps i can use for the keeping it level.

And i plan to do the gue up in 3 or perhaps 4 stages. I'd thought about screws but not keen on the idea tbh.

Whats the general view of the silverline 900mm sash clamps on ebay and toolstation?
Are the man enough for the job? Perhaps 5 of those and a couple of straps (with plywood to stop the sides crushing) would do the job.


To add, I'll be sure to post some pics as I work through all this.

 

[MikeG.]

If you've properly prepared the timber (ie got the gluing faces flat and parallel) then you don't need an almighty amount of pressure when you glue it up. You wouldn't need 5 sash clamps and ratchet straps as well. They would each do the job on their own.

 

[user 29368]

If you've properly prepared the timber.

That's the important bit. I guess if it can close the joints up with hand pressure that will be good enough to indicate a good fit
Im a novice and building the bench to learn and improve my limited skills which includes planing wood. I do the best i can and try not to worry. Thanks.

 

[ScaredyCat]

When I did mine I only had a few clamps 4 f clamps, and 4 quick grips - I joined the quick clamps by making them pull against each other. I built 2 sections first, then joined the two sections together. The top is heavy enough to help in this process, I just let the glue try for a minute or two so that the top section didn't slide about all over the place. I also did this in the living room when the wife was out visiting her mother.

 

[MikeG.]

I am sure that there are experienced members in Oxfordshire who would give you a helping hand if you wanted. Flattening boards is easy with practise, but can be a struggle for a novice (particularly if the wood isn't great and the plane not very well set up). If I were you, I would make myself a couple of pairs of saw horses, one at sawing height, and one at bench height. The bench-height ones could then have a couple of scaffold boards screwed to the top, and be a perfectly adequate temporary bench on which to do the planing for your board preparation.

 

[Tasky]

I guess if it can close the joints up with hand pressure that will be good enough to indicate a good fit

Depends on the gap.
I made this mistake when making my bench. Not sure where I heard it, but I heard this exact same thing being said fairly often... I'd perhaps say finger & thumb pressure, but no more than that. Take the time to plane things properly and use it to learn how to make things fit better.

The mistake has resulted in my bench being assembled all nice, but later on the top actually split along those 'good enough' joints and I now have a bench with a gap big enough to drop a marker pen down!!

 

[user 29368]

Its reasuring to see good results with just a few f clamps.

I spent a long time at the timber merchant picking out the straightest wood so I'm off to a good start (it is surprisingly straight already)
They are 2.4m long at the moment so will be able to select the straightest section from each peice which will help further.
I will do the best i can with my plane and aim for a finger pressure only fit.
If it goes bad in the future I'll just have to make another when ive improved my skills.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Chances are you'll make another anyway - the first rarely works the way you think it will.

 

[custard]

If you're going to use ratchet straps make sure you alternate the ratchet mechanism on alternate sides. The strap itself will not be evenly tensioned, and the ratchet strap will exert a lot more pressure on the side with the ratcheting/tightening mechanism. If you don't alternate the straps you'll have the top curling up towards the side with all the ratchets.

 

[user 29368]

If you're going to use ratchet straps make sure you alternate the ratchet mechanism on alternate sides. The strap itself will not be evenly tensioned, and the ratchet strap will exert a lot more pressure on the side with the ratcheting/tightening mechanism. If you don't alternate the straps you'll have the top curling up towards the side with all the ratchets.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[user 29368]

I blame Paul Sellers, i was going to use 1 inch ply for a top before I found his, make it look easy, youtube guides.

 

[Tasky]

I blame Paul Sellers, i was going to use 1 inch ply for a top before I found his, make it look easy, youtube guides.

It is easy - You just have to pay attention to the details, take your time, measure accurately, be patient and double-check everything. If you don't rush things and make mistakes, the only hard part is the physical labour.
I would add that it helps if you spend some time learning about setting up, sharpening and using the tools, as you have to remember that his kit is all finely tuned after 50 years of woodworking...

One thought I had, if it hasn't been mentioned - You can get sets of spacers for ratchet straps that go on the corners of wood, like you see in framing ratchets. Thought they might be helpful:

 

[Ttrees]

Silverline 600mm f clamps are about the cheapest I've seen, as pictured in ScaredyCat's post.
Handy enough yolks

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Don't forget that if you're buying cramps that pulling something up tight and holding something up tight are different - you can often use a good strong cramp to pull something up tight then replace the cramp with a lighter weight one and use the stronger one again somewhere else. All your cramps don't need to be the strongest.