75 or 90 bullnose pane?

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Jameshow

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I've got tenons to clean up so a rebate plane would be helpful?

Which one would you choose?

The 90 is X2 more expensive than the 75.

Is it much better?
 
James, the Stanley #75 is perhaps the worst plane Stanley made in their entire history of plane making. Avoid it like the plague.

Secondly, neither of these planes is useful for cleaning up tenons! The #90 is a bullnose plane - it is not a shoulder plane - and lack any registration at the toe. It will be a swine to use. It's primary purpose is planing into corners.

A chisel is the best tool for tenon shoulders - pushed into the knifed line. A rasp or file, even a wide chisel, is my choice for tenon cheeks. Or, for very skew cheeks, use a router plane. My use for a shoulder plane is on rebates, not tenon shoulders, and definitely not tenon cheeks (too tippy).

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
75 or 90?
Definitely 90, or better still 92 or 93.
Don't worry to much if the blade clamp is missing or broken, a servicable one can easily be made from a short length of 1/2 inch diameter rod.

Bod
 
75 or 90?
Definitely 90, or better still 92 or 93.
Don't worry to much if the blade clamp is missing or broken, a servicable one can easily be made from a short length of 1/2 inch diameter rod.

Bod

Bob, there is a world of difference between the #90 (bullnose plane) and the #92/93 (shoulder planes). If one insists on a shoulder plane for tenons, then get the wider #93 (1"). At least it also makes a good block plane.

I also very much doubt that most would make their own blades for these planes, so never recommend getting one without a blade. This is the blade ...

1649298993831.png


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Last edited:
Bob, there is a world of difference between the #90 (bullnose plane) and the #92/93 (shoulder planes). If one insists on a shoulder plane for tenons, then get the wider #93 (1"). At least it also makes a good block plane.

I also very much doubt that most would make their own blades for these planes, so never recommend getting one without a blade. This is the blade ...

View attachment 133177

Regards from Perth

Derek
It's the lever cap, that I have found broken on several 2nd hand examples.
The hole in the body that both it and the blade pass through is 1/2 inch in diameter.
Take a 1/2 inch rod, cut down length ways to make a semi circular section, file to fit with blade in place, shape the nose to deflect the shavings, drill and tap for the clamping screw.
Replacement blades are indeed rare, so buying one with no or little blade, it must be cheap.
The difference between #90 and #92/3 is the length of nose in front of the blade, and the #93 is wider.(if one discounts the much older steel cased rabbet plane #90. #90A is a bull nosed rebate plane, but the nose is fixed.)
Info taken from The Supeirior Works - Stanley Blood & Gore: Planes #90 - #100

Bod
 
Yes. I have a 75, they are not much fun. I never use it, my 077a is head and shoulders better.
Yep, a record 077a, a thing of beauty! Bullnose or chisel, just take the front section off. I bought one a couple of years ago, too a while to get the 'right' one, but worth it. Mine is a war finish model, made between 38 and 45 and was issue to places like the factories making horsa gliders etc... a bit of history.....
 

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