1st bowl attempt

[kasandrich]

Hi all,

I had my first attempt at a bowl a few days ago, it ended in disaster, but every cloud has a silver lining it exposed a fault in the wood which would have come to light later on.

Maybe someone can offer some advice to prevent it happening. I have a masterchuck2 and tried to cut a recess so that I could use the chuck internally, but I found the access for the tools badly obstructed by the tailstock and centre, I managed after a bit of a fiddle to cut a recess, but I could not get a decent undercut on it for the lip on the chuck to open into.

It did hold in the chuck but not firmly enough and came out of the chuck, luckily it jammed rather than getting thrown across the shed.

I don't have any special tools, just standard gouges, skews and parting tools, how can I cut a suitable recess between centres?

 

[cornucopia]

you cant really cut an internal recess between centres because of the problems you encountered- so you either need to mount it on a screw chuck or faceplate to give you the best access

 

[kasandrich]

Of course! Thanks Cornucopia, a screw chuck or faceplate screwed into what will become the waste timber in the bowl, then I can do away with the tailstock and get the proper access I require to cut the recess.

I will give it another go.

 

[big soft moose]

if you cant go the faceplate route for any reason (like if you are turning a thin platter where there isnt sufficient waste wood) then you can also screw the face plate onto a bit of scrap and holt melt glue this to the blank.

and another option is to use a pillar drill with an 80mm forstner bit to drill the recess for the chuck - this will be a sheer sided hole not under cut so if you go that route it is wise to drill the hole in to top surface (in the waste wood) then turn a better chuck recess on the other side.

 

[Lightweeder]

if you cant go the faceplate route for any reason (like if you are turning a thin platter where there isnt sufficient waste wood) then you can also screw the face plate onto a bit of scrap and holt melt glue this to the blank.

and another option is to use a pillar drill with an 80mm forstner bit to drill the recess for the chuck - this will be a sheer sided hole not under cut so if you go that route it is wise to drill the hole in to top surface (in the waste wood) then turn a better chuck recess on the other side.

bsm - I've found forstner bits a complete waste of time (and money). Only recently heard that they won't cut into end grain :? :?

LW

 

[big soft moose]

if you cant go the faceplate route for any reason (like if you are turning a thin platter where there isnt sufficient waste wood) then you can also screw the face plate onto a bit of scrap and holt melt glue this to the blank.

and another option is to use a pillar drill with an 80mm forstner bit to drill the recess for the chuck - this will be a sheer sided hole not under cut so if you go that route it is wise to drill the hole in to top surface (in the waste wood) then turn a better chuck recess on the other side.

bsm - I've found forstner bits a complete waste of time (and money). Only recently heard that they won't cut into end grain :? :?

LW

We regularly use an 80mm bit to cut recesses for waymarkers at work and they work fine in cross grain (it helps to have a powerful pillar drill) - ive never tried in end grain but that isnt relevant here anyway as with most bowls the recess is cut into the cross grain.

 

[tekno.mage]

Forstener bits (or sawtooth bits) will cut into endgrain - but it's a slow and very boring ('scuse the pun!) job. You have to make sure the bit is good and sharp to start with, drill at a fairly slow speed (either in the lathe or in a pillar drill) and very frequently pull back the bit to clear the shavings and allow the bit to cool down. Works best on dry wood (wet wood blocks it up rather fast and it tends to cut a very woolly hole) and is considerably slower than using a spindle gouge and a lathe to make a hole! Actually it's even slower than using a lathe and a sharp scraper!

tekno.mage

 

[big soft moose]

and is considerably slower than using a spindle gouge and a lathe to make a hole! Actually it's even slower than using a lathe and a sharp scraper!

I quite agree with this - but the point of using the forstner was to make the first mounting to get the wood on the lathe when the use of a faceplate or screw chuck isnt feasible

 

[CHJ]

I don't have any special tools, just standard gouges, skews and parting tools, how can I cut a suitable recess between centres?

I rarely use a faceplate, occasionally a faceplate ring to fit the chuck jaws but the largest percentage of my work needing a chucking recess starts off on a screw chuck, either directly into the waste wood or into scrap wood hot melt fixed as already mentioned.

A typical work method is shown here

 

[John. B]

When using sawtooth cutters, use it for 30 seconds then apply a piece of old candle to it
(It will have heated up by then and will melt a little bit of candle).
You will find it will cut much easier.

John. B

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Kasandrich,

You want to start with either a faceplate or faceplate ring or screw chuck (whichever you have) and these screw into the wood which will be removed, ie the top of the bowl. This leaves the base of the bowl clear for you to cut your tennon or recess. Personally I prefer a tennon but if you want a recess then you won't go far wrong with a skew chisel, used flat on the rest like a scraper. Don't get too caught up with the angles of the resess and your jaws, just do it!!

Cut your recess/tennon and then shape your bowl. Sand and then flip it round to do the inside. Jobs a good'en!! :wink:

HTH

Richard

P.S, dispite popular belief, forstner bits do drill end grain, although it can be hard work. Thats how I do joins on long work like this:

 

[Bodrighy]

Image isn't showing Richard, I am guessing that was your sopindles?

I find round blanks are fine with a screw chuck, off balance blanks need a faceplate, ring or glue chuck. If none of these are possible for some reason use a tenon but be careful using one on soft or wet wood.

pete

 

[Lightweeder]

Are we saying there's very little difference between forstners and sawtooth's? I'll save myself some money if that's the case.

 

[duncanh]

Are we saying there's very little difference between forstners and sawtooth's? I'll save myself some money if that's the case.

As far as I'm aware sawtooth bits are better at cutting into end grain than forstners. The set I have includes both and the sawtooth are definitely better.
I think the problem with sawtooth cutters is that there's a lot of metal in contact with the wood, so the bits overheat if you cut too quickly.

I'm seriously tempted to get one of the Colt Maxicut bits for making my deep pepper grinders.

 

[CHJ]

.
I'm seriously tempted to get one of the Colt Maxicut bits for making my deep pepper grinders.

I think the cost could be justified for that purpose Duncan, can't see me running to a full set though at those prices.

For long hole boring I work up through the sizes with sawtooth, tapering a lead-in cone at the start to help centralize the larger bits that subsequently don't have a central guide.

 

[Lightweeder]

Duncan - I saw a teacher get results approaching that in a woodwork class - hence my buying a set :? But you'd still need a mighty long extension for your pepper grinders.

LW