1930s fireplace timber, trying to match

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Ok thanks. Local merchant has


KILN DRIED AMERICAN WHITE OAK FAS/FAS1F
KILN DRIED AMERICAN WHITE OAK FAS/FAS1F e2smm&wider) 25mm 38mm 50mm
KILN DRIED EUROPEAN PRIME GRADE
27mm 32mm 40mm 50mm 63mm

so will get a cost for kiln dried European prime grade then.
 
Richard, you are obviously very well-informed and very experienced in this so I hesitate to say this ...
It's perfectly reasonable to ask the question - that's the point of the forum. Both American white oak and the European oak vary significantly in character, and that variation carries through to converted and seasoned timber. In both cases, one example of one type can be markedly different to another example of the same type, so two boards of European oak from different trees could be similar, or quite different, all depending on a variety of factors, e.g., climate, soil type, growing altitude, genetic variation, and so on. So you might have an American white oak board that, at a casual inspection (just looking and handling the sample), appears to be essentially the same as a board of European oak. On the other hand, two similarly randomly sourced boards, one an American white oak and the other a European oak, inspected in the same way as before may seem to be very different to each other, but then again the same might be the case for two American white oak boards, or two European oak boards.

Given the information about variability described in the first paragraph, in my experience it's not possible to say that all American white oak boards have broadly easily identifiable characteristics (through a superficial inspection), that make it easy to distinguish a sample from boards of European oak, for the similar reason that all European oak boards also have broadly identifiable characteristics that are distinct from the American white oaks. Essentially, the superficial characteristics of both types tend to overlap one another ... in each each broad type some are paler than you might expect, or softer, or denser, or are harder to work, or easier to work, and so on.

More often than not, given two samples of the different oak types to identify, simply tossing a coin to make your choice is quite likely to be as reliable a method as carefully looking over the wood in front of you before choosing, ha, ha. Slainte.
 
Perfectly answered Richard. Another way to differentiate them is by price, despite being shipped across the Atlantic American is quite a bit cheaper in my experience, and I also find it very strange that it’s a lot cheaper here than it is in America. But then again I found nearly all timber to be expensive in America. Ian
 
A mix of Colron Jacobean mahogany and Peruvian Mahogany should give yo a pretty good colour match on Eu oak. you pics look just like my architrave and shelving done with them
 
A mix of Colron Jacobean mahogany and Peruvian Mahogany should give yo a pretty good colour match on Eu oak. you pics look just like my architrave and shelving done with them
thanks - do you think its worth the expense of buying more stain (the ones you suggested) - will there be much improvement over the sample I did already?

I have put some Danish oil on the second coat sample, then did a 3rd coat with the stain, and will then danish oil that, and then see what the difference is then
 
Once its daylight will take a pic and let you compare the results my ration was 2jm : 1 PM if you want redder add more of the Peruvian.
 
Furniture of that colour sells for very little as brown furniture is unfashionable.
Come the end of the lockdown, you should be able to buy any amount for next to nothing via charity shops and disposal auctions.
The resultant wood would be very cheap and you might come across a piece of furniture that is worth restoring.
 
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