Amps and voltage etc are not always as clear as they would seem.
If you have kit on the end of a long wire, the voltage drop means increased current draw, and blown fuses. The same unit may work absolutely fine on a different circuit.
Breakers are as simple as just a number either. My table saw would happily carry on running off a 13a fuse. But needs a 16a C curve breaker to deal with the start up current. C curve is what you might call "slow blow".
What would i do in the OPs situation? Put a 13a plug on it and plug it in. See what happens. Worst case its going to blow the fuse, as, well, that's what fuses are there for. If it works, job done. If it doesn't, very little lost (its not going to kill the machine, the operator, the wall wiring, or anything else - again, that's the whole reason for the fuse)
If it does not work, just replace the fuse with a nail.
The next move would be to install a 16A socket on the wall, with a dedicated breaker, but that's a bit more involved.
(the comment about replacing the fuse with a nail was a joke, so if you got agitated, please relax)