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- Thread starter Claymore
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AJB Temple
Finely figured
If I wanted no distortion at all, I would use a multitool (mine is Fein, other brands are available, with a metal cutting blade and cut downwards from above onto a sacrificial piece of MDF or chipboard. I would probably clamp straight bits of timber as guide-pieces to prevent wander. Quick and easy job. As long as you have a multi tool.
Hemsby
Established Member
Bandsaw
worn thumbs
Established Member
A decent jigsaw with the correct blade will do the job.Or you could find a tame sheet metal shop and walk in with your sheet and a bottle of beer.....
Retire2004
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Hi Brian, you need a "nibbler" type pliers. They have 3 blades, the middle blade cuts a curled coil about 2mm wide (bit like opening a corned beef tin). Not sure what they are called, screwfix, tool station or machine mart should have them.
Kind regards Tudor
Kind regards Tudor
Would be surprised if a nibbler would tackle 3mm sheet, even if it's alloy. Whereas jigsaw with fine tooth metalcutting blade should romp through it.
CHJ
Established Member
If you have disc sander then trim sizes within 2 3 mm with jigsaw with mdf or similar support and finish profile by sanding, removing any distorted edge.
hawkeyefxr
Established Member
Bandsaw with a medium TPI, maybe 8 TPI.
Nibblers will cut that thick but they would need to be industrial ones. They won't have bits that nibble bits out, they will be more like lathe turning tools that shear. Out one when i was in the sheet steel game would easily do 3mm steel, but noise, wow more like a machine gun going off.
Nibblers will cut that thick but they would need to be industrial ones. They won't have bits that nibble bits out, they will be more like lathe turning tools that shear. Out one when i was in the sheet steel game would easily do 3mm steel, but noise, wow more like a machine gun going off.
CHJ
Established Member
Yes in the past I have used hand fretsaw to cut much thicker stock that needed intricate shape.Harbo":1r9plqem said:
AES
Established Member
Brian, it's a bit expensive for a one off job, but this, "Veritas Metal Bender & Axminster Power Nibbler - PACKAGE DEAL £48.35". Axi, sorry, I lost the link, just search "sheet metal nibbler. This definitely WILL do the job in 2mm ali.
I have one that looks exactly the same (but I bought mine off a market stall!) and although "officially rated" for sheet steel up to 1.8 mm thick, it actually does 2 mm, no sweat, and I promise you, with NO distortion.
I've done it several times, including on aircraft sheet metal skin. It's driven by a normal electric drill, and the only downsides are A) VERY loud noise (the sheet acts like a sounding board), and B) "millions" of tiny, very sharp crescent-shaped off-cuts all over the floor, which WILL stick in your shoe soles (he says ruefully).
The other methods (above) will work but will need quite a lot of work.
And sorry gents, it's just nonsense to say a power nibbler won't work on 2 mm ali. Mine certainly will, as above, and mine's nothing special - it's certainly not Veritas and didn't cost 50 quid!
If you want I can put mine in the post and you should have it in a week or so. I'm in no need of it right now. PM me 'cos I've probably lost your address - and I've got a few other things on right now too (NO, sorry, it's still NOT "your" aeroplane!).
AES
I have one that looks exactly the same (but I bought mine off a market stall!) and although "officially rated" for sheet steel up to 1.8 mm thick, it actually does 2 mm, no sweat, and I promise you, with NO distortion.
I've done it several times, including on aircraft sheet metal skin. It's driven by a normal electric drill, and the only downsides are A) VERY loud noise (the sheet acts like a sounding board), and B) "millions" of tiny, very sharp crescent-shaped off-cuts all over the floor, which WILL stick in your shoe soles (he says ruefully).
The other methods (above) will work but will need quite a lot of work.
And sorry gents, it's just nonsense to say a power nibbler won't work on 2 mm ali. Mine certainly will, as above, and mine's nothing special - it's certainly not Veritas and didn't cost 50 quid!
If you want I can put mine in the post and you should have it in a week or so. I'm in no need of it right now. PM me 'cos I've probably lost your address - and I've got a few other things on right now too (NO, sorry, it's still NOT "your" aeroplane!).
AES
woodfarmer
Established Member
I would use a bandsaw with a very fine blade. for 2mm thick think 20-30 tpi.
I know the bigger teeth cut faster, but they also snag and snatch more. Take you time.
I know the bigger teeth cut faster, but they also snag and snatch more. Take you time.
AES
Established Member
Yup, a hacksaw WILL work - support the sheet flat on the bench, NOT vertically in the vice.
Just for accuracy, hacksaw blades are available in 10 inch (IF you can find them) and 12 inch lengths (more or less "standard"). And are available ONLY in 14 TPI (as rare as rocking horse manure), 18, 24, and 32 TPI. 24 TPIs are in "every" tool shop, 18s and 32s are also quite difficult to find. For this job it's 32 TPI that you want.
Again Brian, if you go this route and can't find 32 TPI blades, I'll send you a couple "buckshee". Buit the nibbler will be better (but LOUDER)!
AES
Just for accuracy, hacksaw blades are available in 10 inch (IF you can find them) and 12 inch lengths (more or less "standard"). And are available ONLY in 14 TPI (as rare as rocking horse manure), 18, 24, and 32 TPI. 24 TPIs are in "every" tool shop, 18s and 32s are also quite difficult to find. For this job it's 32 TPI that you want.
Again Brian, if you go this route and can't find 32 TPI blades, I'll send you a couple "buckshee". Buit the nibbler will be better (but LOUDER)!
AES
