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Sorry, I misposted mines not a Bastato 4 it's the next model up, it's a Basato 5-4, (the 4 denotes it's a 4 speed). hope this helps.

I have a Scheppach Basato 4, single phase for sale if your still interested, i'm in North Lincs.

The Trend system information sheet gives all the various dimensions you need, or it used too. I use this information to build my own spreadsheet which automatically gives me all the timber cutting dimensions I need once I have entered the actual window size I require. But don't forget you need...

Always reduce as close to the machine as you can get, NOT at the extractor. Are you planning on using the alloy gates supplied by spiralux, I ask because the ones I got leaked a bit of air. I returned mine back for a refund & made my own.

=D> =D>

Euro blocks are useful for small mouldings usually 40mm depth & access you to the ready made cutters that are out there. Serrated blocks are bigger usually starting at 125mm dia and varying depths and used for much bigger mouldings, the cutters are much thicker to allow for this. A lot depends...

FWIW check to see if the blade is doing a back cut, if it is the trunnion is out of alignment. I had this with my Felder.

FWIW, static converters are not very energy efficient as the other two types I mentioned previously and you'll lose about 30% of the motor power, some of the earlier & bigger designs ones can also interfere with radio & tv transmissions (any neighbours close by ?). Can you afford the performance...

Jacob, have you realised you need to nearly rewire the machine for 3 phase wiring & switching ?? and does the motor have the same footprint and spindle size etc etc.

Your right about not switching to single phase, it's not just the electrics, 4Kw single phase is not the same as 4Kw 3 phase. 3 phase has a lot more torque, so to switch to an equivalent single phase you'd need over 6Kw which as you've propably already sussed there is no such motor that size in...

IMHO, forward tilting spindles are next to useless if you plan on using a powerfeeder & you have to be very careful when using them. And they are not as versatile as rear tilting Personally I'd look for a rear tilting version, much safer to use. As Jacob says get one with a decent sized motor...

That's why I cut my own veneers and use Styrene adhesive it solves all those problems :D

I did a staircase a year ago and cut my own veneers 3mm. And used a styrene adhesive, worked really well. i used blocks of wood & wedges & various sized F clamps to hold the veneers in place, the glue sets quite quickly. Top tip don't get any on your hands............................. :lol:

Does his machine have an anti kickback device ??.

I've sent you a pm with a link.

I haven't used the rubber seal version so can't comment on them, but I have the spiral ducting and made my own blast gates from wood and found fitting them a doddle ( there should be some pics on here somewhere). I used the saddles for the Y bends as well. Been up & running for about 5yrs now.

Excellent find Robbo, thanks for sharing =D>

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I've had the Basato 4 for over 4yrs now and it's a good bandsaw. I've had 1" blades on and used it for resawing 10" X 10" Oak into veneers and similar work. It has a very good sized table for resting large timbers on. Also cuts circles very accurately with very narrow blades on. Have a look...

Beech for me, Tulip is too soft imho, can't take the knocks