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Shouldn't be elaborate. For each side cut 4 lengths a little longer than necessary. Soldier them together side by side put some masking tape on to keep them together. Mark the half lap with your square. Set the blade depth to half thickness and run the 4 pieces together over your table saw. Move...

Nor me. Learn something new all the time

I did some work on a victorian canopy some years ago. One side had collapsed. The bottom string 3 x 3 was let into the wall the whole width till under floorboards. The rest was built off this. So this and the one on the other end took all the weight. The fancy fretwork under neath was just...

Repeat with the other ends.

Hi I don't have an image. I haven't googled it. Its from years of experience. I could make it quicker than explain it. Just imagine making the two ends first using half lap basic joints. So you would end up with two squares. Set them on edge when glue has dried and place the two laterals...

Think of bridges. The strongest shape to take weight is a triangle. It shares a load into 2. Each leg is straight. A straight leg on anything bulges into an arc before it breaks. Therefore arcs are not meant to be loadbearing. I think you might be overthinking this. If you are local I'll give...

The half lap and peg is a joint used in patternmaking to make a very strong box section. It would be done on each of 4 corners to produce the box. If I were doing it I wouldn't fit the arc end to the same point but move it inwards about 3 inches. I'm not sure the arc piece is meant to be load...

Trying to cut out of one board will give you 2 weak points at least. The method below is the way to go and has been for 100 years or more. Lol. Don't use plywood it will delaminate over time. Don't bother with tenons etc it's overkill as someone has already said and it will weaken the joint...

The thing with shellac and meths it used to soak right through the timber. You could cut an old pattern and the colour was over an inch deep into the wood.

That technique was taught to me many years ago. Used to make circles about 6 foot dia all the time. You have to keep the grain lateral cut curve t long and there is a break point. Also if the wood needs to be 80mm finish you do it on 2 x 40 mm and glue together crossing the joins. When we did...

You join 2 pieces so you can use the grain the right way for strength. It's easier than it sounds. In fact looking I have 6 arcs standing idle in my workshop.

The curved supports are made by scribing a circle on back of wallpaper. Divide into 8 using dividers. Scribe line to centre to give ends. Cut one end at 35 degrees. Cut one piece as a template. Draw onto hardwood and cut out. Join 2 pieces together to make one arc.

I've done stuff like that. The box section on each end would be half lap jointed and glued. Then the lateral piece is offered up and glued in place and a 1 inch hole drilled through the lap joint into the end of the lateral bar then screwed in place. Actually you don't need the screws it's just...

I can vouch for that. I worked at Qualcast in Horseley Fields Crane works. We turned out thousands of plane body castings of all sizes. Both for Stanley and Record. They were then sent off for machining. Some came back with sand inclusions or blow holes and they were thrown back into the cupola.