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Many thanks for that info. Another quick question if you don't mind. I noticed that the manufacturer's original board has a fuse next to the 240V input, this new design doesn't. Just interested to know whether it was a conscious decision to not include a fuse on this new board design? Looking...

@thikone PCBs arrived from JLCPCB today. What IR receiver module did you use?

Yes, that's good advice. I found that there's quite bit of give as you push the tenon in, so a seemingly too tight mortice, actually expands to being a nice fit. Re the inlay, thanks. It's supposed to be slightly hidden, just a bit of added detail to anyone who's interested in it. I really...

I got fed up of the kids blocking the stairs when they're putting their shoes on so I designed and built a bench for our hallway. It's the first piece of furniture I've designed and built from scratch. Top and slats are oak. Frame is pine, painted white to match our staircase. The small inlay is...

That's incredible. Would you be able to share the PCB design, BOM and STL files (on GitHub maybe)? Or if you had a spare PCB I'd happily pay for it. I'd love to do this conversion.

I had the same problem, control board stopped working. Contacted Record and they sent out a replacement free of charge. 10min job to swap it. The remote only works about 20% of the time on mine so I usually just reach up and press the physical buttons. Build quality and the control system...

I know right :D The drawing was done in Fusion 360 and the dimensions with 2 decimal places are calculated from other dimensions. They're there to give me a reasonable idea of what that dimension should be when building it, rather than being exact.

This made me laugh. Behold my beautiful hand mirror! Honed on 1500, 2000 then 8000 grit lapping paper stuck to polycarbonate plates (the scary sharp system). Bench for our hallway. Oak top, oak slats and a pine frame which will be painted white to match the staircase.

Haha, I don't have a diamond stone fine enough for a mirrored finish and I'm scared to use a strop in case of rounding the corners again! I've ordered some "scary sharp" supplies so hopefully I'll be able to see my face in it soon. Or maybe I'll just get back to chopping mortices and not worry...

All rejoice, my mortice chisel back is now flat and sharp. To be clear, the end goal here was not just to make the back of the chisel flat, it was to make it sharp all the way across the cutting edge. Thanks for all the suggestions. In particular, to @Peter Sefton who pointed me to his...

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. A few specific comments: You're right, however, I don't understand how this would cause the issue. When I push the chisel down onto the curved edge of the sandpaper, it lies flat against the glass. The only extra upward force is from the curvature...

The back of my mortice chisel is not completely flat. Specifically, the corners of the cutting edge are both slightly shallower than the rest of the back face, meaning they aren't honed to form a sharp edge. Here you can see the remnants of permanent marker left after dragging it across a fine...

Ha, point taken. Still not convinced that it's an absolutely necessary skill. I mean, I learned how to flatten large boards by hand using a No 7 plane, but now rarely use that skill since I have a planer. I do appreciate the pep talk though, got my eye on one of those honing angle guides on ebay...

Great idea, just bought one. £11.50 delivered. Not sure if it'll be any better than the one I've got but worth a shot. Regarding freehand sharpening, I would love to acquire this skill but to me it feels like marginal gains (ok you don't have to set up the iron in a guide, but you still have...

I have an eclipse-style honing guide which I bought from Amazon for about 10 quid. It's OK but you cannot tighten the jaws too much otherwise the frame bends. It also won't sharpen chisels with flat sides (i.e. mortise chisels). I bought the Veritas MK2 honing guide hoping to solve these...

No problem. I design and print a lot of dust extraction adapters where 0.5mm can be the difference between "way too loose" and "nice airtight fit". If you're doing anything like that it's well worth the pain of calibration.

It seems that the touch screen on the Ender 5 is missing a lot of functionality (source: this video and page 28 of the manual...

I think that's just indicating that you can disable the stepper motors if you want. This can be useful if you want to manually move the print head around. What's on the Move and Printer Info screens? If setting the steps/mm isn't available through the LCD menu you may need to connect the...

Not sure what's causing that. Afaik Creality don't lock any configuration settings. Could you post photos of the menu screens?

I'd start by checking the printer calibration, specifically the steps/mm values for the X, Y and Z stepper motors. This is as simple as printing a 20mm calibration cube, measuring each axis with calipers or micrometer, then calculating the new steps/mm values based on the existing values and...