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Agree, and bear in mind that the joists may flex, so even if the run of holes is straight when you put the pipe through, it may pinch if someone walks above, or the building moves (which they do) etc. So - for rigid pipe, do allow for that in the clearance, whatever you end up doing.

Nearly 40 years ago I was viewing a house in Eynsham, Oxon that had been the bakery and it was reported that it used to be used in the same way.

All the above, plus: (1) in my experience it tends to become more brittle (and prone to cracking) with age, so be particularly careful as this is second-hand. (mind you, the stuff I discovered this on was much older than yours will be). (2) I have successfully profiled it on a milling machine...

Relax. The French Navy used a pure white flag between 1638 and 1790 and then again between 1814 and 1830. see e.g. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_French_flags

This is all a bit of a puzzle! The relatively low capacitance (5 microFarads) indicates it's a run capacitor rather than a start capacitor (which tend to be 100 to 1600 µF. The switch does seem to be a three-phase one however, and as Ronniel says above, it's not at all normal for a...

If you're going with Alumin(i)um, you need to avoid the 6xxx series alloys as they crack if you bend them (typically in the US, 6061 is most common, and in the UK it used to be 6082). You'll probably want a 5xxx alloy - the common one used to be 5083-O (-O means "annealed"). 5xxx are good for...

Perhaps you could cut round the whole back panel, not quite in line with the sides, but leaving 20mm or so all round, then fit a new panel and secure it to the bit you've left of the old one. That way you'd have a tidy job (with the best match you can of the new panel to the old one) and a very...

What's the rating and class of the breaker? you might have class B but need class C to handle the startup current. On the switch - my inclination would be not to worry too much. that's not what the manufacturers spend their money on these days. So just replace it with a better one. (It's...

You will need the class C MCB for sure but that protects the wiring, not the motor. Any motor more than 1/2 hp should have a thermal overload, which is like an even slower fuse. (You need to set it to the nominal motor current, or just above, which will be a bit less than 16A). In other...

If you have a router and this is the only job you're likely to do then you could consider a biscuit jointer router bit ...

Picking up on Spectric's point above, you can get soft starters for single phase motors that work fine with the start winding/capacitor/centrifugal switch. I have used a DOLD 9017 (because it switches itself out of the circuit completely after the start). others are available. (Don't be put...

A couple of things. 1) This IS a single-phase motor and not a three-phase one, right ? :) (don't connect a three-phase motor to a single supply) 2) The 13A fuse in the plug is designed NOT to blow unless the current exceeds 50% more than it's rating, which means it won't blow until 20A in the...

Can you also provide a zoomed out picture please so the "95/96/97" contacts on the bottom of the thermal overloads are visible, as well as the current settings. Also i can't quite make out the coil wiring in these. Basic question is whether it's phase-to-phase (415V) or phase-to-neutral...

As ChaiLatte mentions, you need to specify the coil voltage too. Also, is this a single-phase or three-phase motor? And what is the power rating and static current? (You could maybe post a picture of the contactor showing the type, and of it with its wiring, and the motor plate.) K2-09 isn't...

Another possibility you could consider is 15mm Corrugated Conduit which you can get from Amazon and already has a split in it. (I used last year when SWMBO cut through the ethernet cable to the shed - green so it's not confused with water, gas, electricity) But I would be tempted to put it in...

I finally got round to visiting today. very friendly. in terms of what they have, it's mostly structural softwood but there are some racks of harder stuff. Some pictures attached. Beware that some search engines give the wrong address - the correct one is 2 Spring Valley Business Centre AL3...

Maybe some of the small pipe benders used for microbore copper tube? (If that radius is small enough for your application)

in addition to being easier to scratch, and not as clear (though perspex (acetate) is better than polycarbonate in this regard, the plastics are much less stiff than the glass. If you imagine your glazed panel were made of ply, then glass would be stiffer, and plastic floppier (for the same...

With constraints on budget, portability, size etc you're always going to have to compromise. I was replacing a similar model that you are and ended up with Bosch GTS 635-216 (£430 from Axminster) that just pipped a similarly-priced DeWalt. I'm only a hobbyist so use it only occasionally, and...

My $0.02 Anything with a series-wound motor - you're probably fine with a transformer For an induction motor which I think is mostly what you have, the most reliable way of getting them to work well is probably to use some sort of inverter drive (VFD set to 60Hz or similar), ideally with a...