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If leaving the wood the only way is to experiment on a small patch of the mitred frames using wood stain or dye, then after a suitable drying period, I'd hardwaxoil the frames masking the glass panels off. You'll need 3 coats for exterior use for durability. Osmo should be fine but if worried...

Looks like Red Meranti and I may be wrong but the door looks like a quality Sapele That's pretty poor work, rushed with poor mitres and finishing. If it were mine, I'd remove what they'd done, buy some Sapele which won't be the same batch but would be a better match and finish it in a...

Just completed this commission for Kore Recording Studios...a pair of RFC Colebrok Speakers I finished designing a few months back:

Front face and plinth I used medium density cluster Pippy Oak. The rest was Crown cut Oak with European solid Oak framing. Finish was 10 coats of liberon fine finishing oil, lightly rubbed back and after curing, several coats of Caurnuaba and Beeswax for a natural sheen and once cured, a lovely...

Does it? I didn't say it wasn't proven, useful and reliable. It is all of those things but like everything built down to a price has compromises not found on more expensive machinery. When on a budget and not able to move some of the larger old cast iron lumps like the Startrite into the...

Plumbers Mate silicone sealant. Cures with moisture, bonds and seals plus is easy to remove by scraping off. Used it before and it works a treat. You can also buy small sealant tubes designed for bonding fish tanks together which is very similar stuff.

just completed for a client who wanted these for his bedroom system (!):

I don't really think they can be beaten here at the price for a new machine without doubling the budget and looking at something like a Laguna Fusion table saw or similar. I have no regrets about buying the W650 but there are a number of design niggles which point towards lazy, ill considered...

I have less than 8mm to my blade, more like 5mm and that's perfectly fine and safe. You should find adjustability on the Bosch but whether there's enough I can't remember. I do remember it was pretty easy to adjust and remove when I wanted to make rebate cuts on the sled. I would sooner go by...

I have TB3 (which is just a Yellow PVA D4 class glue) but it sets too brown. D4 white PVA is as strong imho and sets clear but is also similar consistency.

I made mine using 18mm birch ply for solidity and oiled it with a few coats of Osmo Poly X. Castors were these...

For invisible glue lines on veneer edges and inlays, I always use a D4 white PVA and ensure gaps are practically non existent. The D4 I use is thinner than my usual D3 brand which helps a bit (I use the stuff rebottled by Rutlands or the equivalent Everbuild D4).

+1 I'd use the cleaner side personally. Level out the planing marks with a belt or half sheet sander but go easy as used clumsily they can tear into the timber quicker than you think if not kept perfectly level, and use just light pressure and keep it moving. Don't have it set on too high a...

Yes, quite true Luckily, the lumberjack one with mods came to 820mm tall which suits me perfectly otherwise I'd have built my own. My main assembly bench is 820mm tall as is by pure coincidence, my cabinet saw table top. Trouble presently is with some benches you'd struggle to buy the timber...

As above, these (shown in the OP) aren't really substantial enough. If you want one on a budget, then the Lumberjack versions are similar but cheaper. I bought one and added some ply under the thin Beachwood top to thicken it up (drilling the dog holes through) and stiffened it by screwing a...

tbh, most cabinet makers I know locally (and that's admittedly about 4 of them) all either freehand sharpen chisels or use a honing guide. I use a honing guide myself and don't find it any hassle at all providing that blades are regularly honed. It's not unless you really let them get out of...

You're all taking it too far and out of context. We're not talking about combine harvesters nor ploughs nor table saws, we're discussing sharpening chisels and planes for heaven's sakes. If people find powered sharpening tools more convenient, fine, go with that.

I just use fine oil finishes which naturally darken grain. I rarely ever use spray applied plastic based finishes although they can be very durable because I have a preference for the grain popping properties of oil finishes which provide a more natural finish imho.

I regularly finish edge grain by fine sanding and sealing using fine finishing oils. There's no problem. I've used Fiddes and Osmo Poly-X extensively but these days favour pretty much for most work Liberon fine finishing oil and just build coats as thick as needed for durability.

I simply use whetstones or two diamond coated plates and a hone guide. As long as chisels and plane blades are already a good way there., it takes just minutes to get them razor sharp. I have noticed in recent years a growth of solutions being sold for problems we just never had. Everything...