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Absolutely! I probably spent more on tools than I really should but I don't have an excuse to not do more now. I also agonised over the details a bit too much but more confidence and practice will help there.

Not only the last thing I made but actually the first piece of furniture I've made. Ripped out the old built in wardrobes because they were terribly inefficient use of the space. Built 4 seperate carcasses with matching top boxes from 18mm MR MDF, bolting them onto a plinth. Added IKEA...

I might actually give that a go, mainly because I love the word "muntin".

Yes, I've always struggled with it on YT. To me a "dado" is a rail.

It's not at all too late, and I was thinking upping the thickness was the other answer, I don't want to add any additional weight to the draw if I can help it though, but I suppose another 4mm isn't going to add that much. Apologies for the Americanism, I've clearly watched way too many US...

Now that I've got over the cost of 12mm Birch plywood I'm biting the bullet and building the drawers for my wardrobe build. Plans are as below, the box being made of 12mm ply, the base being 5mm ply sitting in a dado all round, all held together with pocket holes/glue as necessary. I'm a little...

Agreed, if it can go on the line it does, but with kids that's not always practical. The point being though that a "normal" tumble dryer will cost you anything up to 90p per run at the moment, whereas a decent heat pump version is less than 15p

Other than getting rid of the kids (I jest) the biggest saving we made was to purchase a new tumble dryer. It's a Samsung AAA rated heat pump one and given it's used daily, the monthy bill is less than £5!

I'll start by paraphrasing this by saying I have searched (honest). Could someone give me an idea what reveal I should be planning on for overlay doors? I've got 3 1900x900mm double door carcasses, made form 18mm MDF. The doors will also be 18 mm thick. If I drop 1.5-2mm for the overall...

It's primarily to give some uniformity to the carcasses. I'll have 3x900mm wide and one 450mm wide. Thereby all the doors will be a uniform width. Yes, I suppose I could stretch everything laterally to fill the entire space but I wanted to ensure I have some leeway for out of true walls AND more...

It's certainly an option but I only have 570mm in total for the depth of the wardrobe. Dropping 20mm off that would make the hanging space a bit cramped, no? Although that space would also help me with the wiring for the interior lighting.

What if, instead of fully sealed backs, I simply braced the carcasses in several points? That would be a similar solution to what we have now, but with the vertical divides needed for shelves/drawers.

It will be touching the back wall but It's an inside wall thankfully. How likely is mould in that scenario?

Yeah, it's my intention to add it to the rear face of the frame rather than slotting it in, using glue and screws to fix in place. It's only the single large carcass that won't have a second cross member half way down as that'll be for full height hanging. I suppose I could easily add a brace...

MR mainly because I'd read in many places that it's structurally better, ie less "fluffy" when cut. I don't mind the additional cost in this instance.

There will be about a 8cm spacer down the sides and it's not really practical to add braces unfortunately.

Like many before me I'm sure, I'm looking to expand my horizons a bit as far as DIY is concerned and replace some old fitted wardrobes. The area in question though poses me a bit of a problem. I intend to go the route of a plinth with MDF carcasses. My issue though is that the depth of the...