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Almost the last job before holidays... Bit of a pig to get in/scribe, but worth it in the end. Painted in F&B Moles Breath. Cheers Karl

A plain "fillet" and no cornice detail would look crap. (haha - sweary editor - carp is what I meant). I did discuss the idea of shelves in the sofa area, but the customer didn't want any. And she who pays the bills gets what the f she wants! Cheers Karl

Excellent work. The high gloss finish isn't to my taste, but the actual veneering work is top drawer (I was going to add "for a first effort", but that's irrelevant!). Cheers Karl

Yes, that's it. Glue and screw from the underside. Karl

Can't see the "this technique", but sounds like you have it. Ply would be stronger than mdf. Karl

Yes, you're taking a risk building the that wide. Don't recall seeing any that wide anywhere else, although that isn't to say it can't be done. Drawer side need to be 15mm to work with undermount runners (I use Blum Movento), or if you use 18mm you'll have to rebate on the underside. Don't put...

You'll have to take certain precautions if you're going to build a drawer box that size, but it is do-able. Primarily, the base should be screwed from the underside to the front and back rails. and I would put solid fronts on them to support the whole assembly and prevent any sagging. I've done...

Cheers guys. In general i'm not a big fan of cornice running upto the ceiling - if the ceiling is out, what then? In this room (which is about 7 metres long) there was a deviance of about 50mm in the ceiling highs n lows. AES - it might look daunting, but it's a really simple job - all mdf...

Most of my stuff is 440v. I moved my thicknesser (230v), and whilst there is a 16a supply for it, it would mean moving cabling etc. In its new position there is a 5pin 440v supply about a metre away, hence the question. Cheers Karl

Thought so. Cheers guys.

Not sure why there's a duplicate image after i've signed off - checked the edit and there's nothing there....

I recently finished this job. All mrmdf, sprayed in Morrells 20% sheen water based. The gap between the two towers is for a sofa. Doors fitted with push to open catches. Cheers Karl

Smacks of sour grapes to me (on the part of Gass). He invented something which he thought would not only revolutionise the use of table saws, and no doubt make him very wealthy at the same time. Years down the line, it hasn't quite turned out as planned for him. Just my 2p. Cheers Karl

If I have a 5 pin 440v supply (ie 3 live, 1 neutral, 1 earth), can I use it to supply a 230v maching using just one of the lives, the neutral and the earth? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?? Cheers Karl

Yeah, take the time to run it over the hearth. It'll just bug you otherwise as a job half done. If it's a tricky shape just make a template first (thick card or fibreboard etc). Cheers Karl

I checked the micro switches, and they aren't the issue. Stop buttons work fine too. I'm suspecting it might be the star delta switch itself. It feels rather "clunky" to turn. But I have no idea how to test it, so guess i'll have to find somebody local to take a look at it as i'm at the limit...

Thanks for the input Robin. Both emergency stops seem to be working fine (retract then the "click" of the brake when pushed in). I had thought about the micro switches (I think there are 3), so i'll have a look at those tomorrow. Cheers Karl

Thanks Bright Spark. I'm probably barking up the wrong tree. Just wired up my 2nd hand panel saw which has star delta. First time i've used one. Normally all three lives can be connected to any terminal on the plug, if it's spinning backwards, switch 2 over. Fine. But i've wired this machine...

Hope somebody can help out - is it crucial for the phases to be kept in-line on a machine with a star delta start (ie l1 to l1, l2 to l2 and l3 to l3)? Cheers Karl

Hi all Does anybody happen to have a manual they could send me a copy of/scan for the above? Or the P200 which, I believe, is very similar. Cheers Karl