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Slight change of plans for the sun porch.

I put in 3x 15mm pex barrier pipe, one for a hose and the other two are insulated that I will use for heating. I don't plan on heating the workshop all the time, but on the coldest days it is nice to have something to take the chill off, and it will be cheaper with hot water from my boiler.

The workshop now has proper power, yay! Recycled CU from the house fed with a 3 core 10mm2 SWA cable.

Does anyone have an idea what kind of wood this flooring is? Both are quite dense, around 900kg/cu m. On my screen the color looks pretty close. The one on the left is brown with a hint of red in the medium dark areas. The one on the right is very red. It was laid with bitumen, so it is quite old.

Thanks for the ideas. I have different batches from different places, I plant to mix and match to make patterns in the floor. I have about 80 meters to do. Some are quite brittle, and some are more gooey. I tried Bingy Man's suggestion of using a heat gun. It seems to work OK, and softens even...

I have some recycled flooring that was originally laid with bitumen that I need to remove. I was thinking to get a mechanic's part washer, fill it with white spirit, soak it for a while and then brush it off. Has anyone tried this? Anyone have any better way to remove it? I plan to screw it down...

Here is a device to sand the castings flat use drywall sanding screen. I should make one with slots and a hole to attach a vacuum. When gluing them up I use nails to position them. It now looks like this, still needs a little pointing.

The first room in the house is going to have a pattern on the ceiling similar to that in pic 3. You can buy the straight molding, but not the curves, as they need to be the correct size for the ceiling rose. You can run them with plaster, adjusting the pivot point for the size of you rose: The...

It is not an unvented hot water cylinder, it is a thermal store with an external heat exchanger, what some people here call a heat bank. My house came with a vented system which will be sealed when I replace my old boiler, otherwise I would have gone for a mild steel tank with a large internal...

Is there anyone near Norwich that in addition to woodwork, dabbles in ornamental plasterwork for a hobby? I would be interested in trading molds and models. This is the kind of stuff I am thinking about (from previous projects) .

With multiple heat sources you might be better off with a thermal store. I am not in the trade, just a DIY guy. Here is what I did: https://www.plumbersforums.net/threads/t50-on-new-install.121196/post-1128880 The plan has unvented because I only have a gas boiler, vented is simpler if you...

It does look awful, it is flush at the bottom but sticks out at the top. I think it was originally flush at the top as well, maybe the screw has stripped. The lock has never worked so well, it often sticks, so maybe someone has removed it a few times.

I wondered about the routing as well, and thought it odd that they would use a router in the 30s at all. Did they even exist then? But this is the period (~1935) where they were experimenting with everything round, so I am not sure what people did. The stained glass looks original, and matches...

These are pics of the front door of a 1930s house in Norwich. I think it must have been common wood for exterior doors, since some neighbors that have original doors look the same.

In Canada the service comes into the house on 3 wires, a neutral and two hot wires. In Sask. the neutral and ground are tied together at the breaker panel, although this may differ in other provinces. Between the hot wires is ~240V and between the either hot and the neutral is ~120V (opposite...

For the LED lights, I was not thinking so much about the load, but rather that since LEDs use low voltage DC, they probably don't care so much about voltage drop, unless they have a really crappy power supply. Perhaps they will eventually ditch the 3% rule for lighting circuits in residential...

I wondered about the difference for the allowed voltage drop for lighting vs non-lighting circuits, with LED lighting does it matter? In any case a 10mm 3 core looks like the way to go, it is not so much more expensive.

Ideally it would be nice to have each room on its own zone. The simplest way to achieve that is probably with TRVs (smart or not) and a buffered heat source.

Although a conduit would be very nice, I am not sure it is practical in my case. It is a bit far (30m) and there are several corners. Having said that it might be an idea to put a control cable in as well, although nowadays most control can be done wireless. For the heating, if I ever used it, I...

I would wrap them with insulation, yes. The trouble is finding something that will last underground that doesn't cost way more than the pipes themselves.