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How did you get on mate?

Cut a relief cut with a skills as and multi tool in the door way then cover with a threshold trim. Also ease the cuts around the frame(should have been undercut but that ship has sailed) When siliconed back in I doubt it will creak, this would be the first step as that area looks crap and the...

Could be your top is too thick! Also try chamfering the holes or rounding over with a trim router! Essential for not nipping your finger when sliding stuff over too! I have pretty much only ever used a 20mm cutter in 18months and 20mm electrical conduit with stop ends or joiners on cut at...

Domino the back every 150mm Domino the front every 150mm to a piece of hardood that can be sanded flush and decorated, or slightly chamfered to create a nice v join detail. You could also have it lipping down from the shelf to hide a light detail. No need to rebate the sides, dominos will be...

I haven’t actually used either but have owned my fair share of mitre saws and now use the kapex 120. Kapex will out live and out last. It’s design will ensure no play. It will hold its value, be more accurate and nicer to use plus will be better on dust collection. Power has no place on most...

I have both and have encountered similar issues in the past. It’s drove me crazy but it’s always only ever down to how you hold it! Just double check each time you put the machine down. It is always a hand held machine so hand held tolerances apply! Also end grain is harder to plunge so as I am...

Where are based mate? Might help to know as i or someone else could help! As for the course. I personally learnt a lot from just watching his first 2 YouTube tutorials on sketchup! He has a good way of explaining stuff IMO. Matt

Hi Steve, if you are struggling with the planing side which by the way takes a lot of setup and practice with long lengths! You should look into using the thicknesser only! You will need a board the same length or a little longer that is uniform in thickness and the width of the thicknesser or...

I have 2 that are 18months old. Had lots of abuse and still in great condition. 18mm standard mdf sanded and coated in what ever oil you have, hard wax works well. Remember to router a chamfer in every hole, It hurts like buggery if you get your finger caught in one when sliding things across!

Yeah. Tbh it’s I am finding it tough at the minute as mdf etc is so high In cost and tbh not great in quality. On the odd occasion I have been a sheet of two short and topped up with a lower quality. The difference was not noticeable once I was done and the data sheets don’t suggest any more...

this is most fascinating to me as i also have a workshop and spray room. I personally feel that anything under £1.5k per m is just not worth it and only do fully finished, drawers and stuff are on top. Pricing is so hard tho and can take ages so i tend to ask for images of roughly what the...

22mm MR R & S 6mm MR Panel Keep every component flat and straight! during every bit of the process especially the glue up. 6mm panel is rigid enough when glued and keeps weight down plus also increase the depth of the shaker. I also like to add dominos but perhaps not essential. One...

Thanks to everyone that commented I have come up with a plan. There is a company near me that do veneer work so I am going to get them to 2mm veneer a external door blank on both sides I am then going to route grooves in on both sides but only 5mm deep and then rebate a load of oak into these...

Very comprehensive and with another suggestion on here I could merge them and get them to work for sure. Need to take this to sketch up I think

I would be worried about the slats being in the t&g but I guess if the join was in the shadow gap it could work. I think I would need to machine the t and g as 2 m is quite long for flooring but it could work. Definitely an option and I will think about it further.

Nice idea but the door would be quite heavy and deep with both sides done it floor boards plus once I groove the floor boards I am not sure how stable the excess will be and I will need to miss the t and g of the floor boards. I suppose I could make my own t and g oak boards but I am still...

Not yet as I don’t really know how to make it. I have made quite a few hardwood R & S doors and have a the kit but this door is probably more suited to a blank rather than the traditional method

I like this idea as I could fix the slats through the back of the ply before I foam and press it. Also a fantastic ideas in terms of insulation! Basically a wooden sip and I imagine it will stay stable. As for the weather strip it’s under cover so I don’t need to worry about driving rain but...

I will check it out thanks

Brilliant. I couldn’t find external ones! Do you have a link?