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Stewmac blade seems a bit pricy. I got my from some German shop for about £60 (that was a good ten years ago...adjust for inflation) and the guy had a selection of kerfs for different fret wire. Can't recall the shop name and no guarantee that he's still in business, but do shop around...

Thank you - some handy tips and ideas there.

For fret slots why not just use a regular table saw? You can get "proper" full-sized blades with a thin kerf specifically for slotting. Just make sure you only cut once and lift your blank when pulling back the sled. Cutting there-and-back will give you a wider slot [Still not the end of the...

I've looked into this a few years ago (things might have changed since then) but there were no viable options in the UK. The only option that offered any degree of accuracy was some severely overpriced & underpowered jobbie from the USA, which after shipping and taxes worked out about the same...

Thanks. No compressor, so the vacuum bag option won't work. Hammer veneering sounds like it might work but: - The box frame is very tricky to clamp, and the ply is very thin, lightweight & flexible. So I can't put my body weight into it with a veneering hammer. - A lot of excessive glue run-out...

Hi All, Hoping for some advice about veneering. I've done a lot of flat veneering - that is, putting veneer on flat surfaces, when you use the glue of your choice, then clamp it to the surface an Bob's your uncle. I've also done some lightly curved iron-on veneering with titebond I - apply to...

An update in case anyone is looking for similar tools: Easiest thing turned out to buy some Bahco warding & engineering files (£7-£12 each) and bump the offending edges on a bog standard 6" bench grinder. It also helps to kiss the safe surfaces on a diamond plate after grinding to bump the...

Yes, but only marginally. I actually really like the design & the size, but the seller's not interested in sending out a replacement. Go figure. It's a matter of principle, really: why accept a flawed product, especially if the seller does not admit the flaw or the lack of QC (the step/kink in...

And just to ilustrate: https://mega.nz/file/ngY1kZjT#m_FhUcvj8PXrBwMGjA4fSxMzEBfPJCroJBe3YM-bFbw "Perfectly within our tolerance for a machined flat surface and we are really sorry that our product did not meet your very high standards".

I need it to be flat for flattening jobs, but my issue with the rail, really, is that there's clearly a machining defect on the working surface, and the seller was being rather arrogant in claiming that such poor workmanship is acceptable for a machined surface. I don't accept such poor surfaces...

Thanks for the suggestion. What steel offcut to go for? Silver steel would bee too soft, wouldn't it?

Yes, it's a 0.5mm step, not run-off. Thanks folks. I don't consider that flat and I'm a woodworker(!). I'll be sending it back. Didn't like the seller's attitude either to be honest.

Mainly need it to use as a base for (very fine) riveting and straightening (small) flat stock. I think it's just a big expectation mismatch - having a 0.5mm high spot on a surface that was supposedly "machined perfectly flat" sounds like a botch job to me, but the customer service bottom line...

Hi all, Just hoping for a second opinion on whether I am being unreasonable or not. Was looking for a benchtop anvil, and found a UK made one from Reclaimed Railway (ebay, etsy, etc). Essentially, it's a 130mm-long chunk of old railway with the top of the rail "machined perfectly flat"...

I think that tips about rivet tips are riveting.

@profchris It's a human-powered helicopter. Because it doesn't have an engine, it does not have to pass the rigorous certification. I believe the safety argument is used to stop innovation and prevent new players from entering the market... No, it's just accordion reeds. 0.5-0.8mm spring steel...

Hi All. I believe there are a few airplane engineers on this forum. Are there any tips or know-hows for riveting metal parts together? Surely it can't be as easy as just whacking it with a hammer? In particular, riveting steel to aluminium (with mild steel rivets). and riveting with brass...

Another vote for bahco combination squares. For marking lines I use cheapo chinese digital calipers from Aldi (from memory, about £7 or so). Set them to the right depth, then just scribe a line with the point, while the other point runs along the edge. I always get a lot of flak from just about...

Very nicely done. I bought some Stormont paring chisels for lutherie and they work like a dream. For carving the heels, you don't need bevels. In fact, you might find it easier to use for carving if you don't have them. In regard to the handle though, for a chisel like this, I found that a...

Thank you. I thought about epoxy on the side, but I reckon I'll just file my way through it quite quickly and then damage the sides of the slot. To give some background, I am looking to cut reasonably accurate rectangular and long trapezium-shaped slots in thin aluminium (3-6mm) and brass(3mm)...