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I would maybe also rout shallow grooves for the right and left straight fences to give them a solid hard reference. Interesting to see what you come up with this winter.

No it's unchanged. If I would do it again I would switch to the microjig clamps as they have a slightly better clamp interface (those were not invented when I made the first version of my jig).

In what situations? Only I can think of is if you're very close to an edge. I agree the medium setting could be tighter but I have problems to see how it would make the Domino way more useful. Sideway support from the Domino itself is already lost with medium setting, if it's lost by 1 or 3mm...

That edging could give you problems. The top will expand and contract in width with humidity changes and needs to be free to do so. The short side edging will restrict that movement and it could result in cracks or other problems. Good thing that could make this top survive is that it's not very...

Oh, the clickbaits have made their way into the forums now as well. Thought they were a youtube-only thing. Regarding the drill jig itself I'm not very impressed.

OK, the front apron cut out is done starting around the 16min mark in this video. But, for the joint to be invisible some luck and the right board for the job is needed. Grainmatch on the sides of the drawer is the "simple thing" since this is predictable, to have it invisible in the rip lines a...

Thanks! I started with an over wide apron (approx 10mm material outside the bars), routed grooves for the metal bars and screwed these in place. With the bars in place I could after that go really thin on the dimension, sent the apron through the planer a few times until I had about 1.5mm...

Writing desk for a customer. European ash, grain matched drawer cut out from front apron via a few steps. Turned out quite nice. I tried my best to keep the apron height down but still having a usable drawer height, as a tall apron on a writing desk is not desirable. Recessed 15×15mm solid metal...

I have had my Dewalt 625 25+ years and a (two) Triton TRA001 a few years. To me the Dewalt is much higher build quality, Triton overall feels more plastic. My first Triton was returned due to severe vibration problem straight out of the box. Replacement not as good as my Dewalt either in that...

Peronally I have a 350mm wheel small variant from Sweden with very stable one piece cast iron frame. With the right blade it's an excellent ripper. Don't live in uk so have problems to recommend something for you, but I guess there are plenty of bandsaw threads on this forum, or start a new one.

I'm well aware of the difference between the truing tool and the (totally meaningless) dressing stone which makes a difference for about 10 seconds. My friend didn't believe me either when I said it took one hour so I let him give it a try on his Tormek. He ended up around 50 minutes. I see...

Scary accident, thanks for sharing and reminding us of the dangers. A lot of talk about push sticks. I instead do almost all solid wood ripping on the bandsaw, that way you avoid nearly all those narrow cuts where the push stick doesn't really fit between the blade guard and the fence. Also...

Was that answer to me? The 1 hour on the PMW11 thick bevel up blade started with the stone truing tool, think I used it halfway through as well. The problem with these thick wide blades is that the surface area is so big that the grinding pressure/mm2 becomes really small, and it seems the...

The major downside of the Tormek is the speed, it takes forever to get a new bevel on a wide thick plane iron. And when I say forever I mean it. The bevel up blade for my Veritas shooting plane took about 1 hour of constant grinding with some small pauses. I was extremely frustrated at times and...

I learned this from another swedish guy a couple of years ago. Did quite some searching before making a video about it and this method doesn't seem very well known. It's maybe not new in any way, but I think it deserved a video. Since I learned this method I use it for almost all router...

If it's not too thin material and/or very tight boxjoints it can work to place the clamps inside the fingers. If I need to place clamps directly over the fingers I make some "clamping cauls" for this at the same time as I cut the boxjoints. The cauls let me clamp directly over the fingers. The...

It's nice but I'm not super excited about it. It feels like a compromise, missing one of the major axises. If going this route I would go full CNC instead. For boxjoints, the table saw is superior, keyhole slot routing and biscuit slot cutting (in only one direction)...? Not something you do...

I started out with burn stamp with my logo but after a few tries I considered that too high risk, you only get one shot at it and often when the project is done so mistakes are hard to repair. Nowadays I use custom coins with my logo, ordered from Aliexpress a few years ago, didn't cost that...

It's this one here (picture), comes in different diameters and widths. Brand is swedex and their blades are sold through different channels though not easily accesable for non company customers. Link below is to one of the stores selling these blades...

I use two blades at the moment, one 250mm Hammer (same brand as makes machines) 3.2mm rip cut with flat tops, and one 200mm 4mm wide rip blade of a swedish brand, also that flat top grind. Both gives excellent baselines without any visible steps at all. The 200mm thicker one is very stable (and...