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Now sold (sorry John)

Someone is coming to view on Saturday afternoon, will post an update on this thread after that. Thanks for your interest. Steve

Still available. PM me and we can make arrangements. Thanks Steve

Downsized house twice and this is this is the last of my large workshop machines to go due to lack of space. Hobby use only - I bought this for a couple of projects a few years ago and it hasn't been used much since. It comes with the optional Jet leg stand, currently with a homemade wooden base...

For (large) garden gates with FLB construction, what is the ideal angle for the brace to be at? I've seen a couple of posts saying not to exceed 45 degrees, but I'm not sure why. Does that mean 45degrees is "best"? Also, a few posts say it is good practice to inset the brace 50mm or so away...

The overall size is a bit of a concern - total area is 3m x2m. The gates are under a carport, house to one side, fence to the other and set back about 2m from the opening so fairly sheltered, but a wind hitting it directly head on will have an effect. Hopefully it won't be more than rattling...

Hi Olly I know what you mean but I'm pretty much tied to T&G or at least rebated 4x1 made to look like T&G as they have to match other nearby doors. Steve

Robin I hadn't realised 1 draw dowel would be ok for a 100mm tenon (which is about what mine will be). I think I've seen a post elsewhere that suggested a stress relief hole at the base of the kerf cut isn't necessary in softwood (Steve Maskery?) but I wasn't sure. Thanks for the help Steve

Thanks for the quick reply Robin Good tips for the wedging. I hadn't thought about moisture content, but the timber is in the garage and the gates will actually be under a carport so not exposed to rain. Hopefully there won't be too much movement after fitting. Do you think 4 holes would...

Evening All I'm just at the planning stage for a new set of gates for the side of the house. One will need to be 1m wide and one 2m wide. They need to be about 2m tall, so the larger gate will be almost 2m square, which is pretty big so will need strong joints (as well as 3 rails, braces etc)...

Thanks Mignal That sounds logical. I was planning (if I get one) to do just that, with masking tape and cardboard for protection. Thanks for the tips on the best varnish to use. So, to sum up the replies so far: :wink: Oil is good. So is varnish, especially the good ones. Alternatively, buy...

Varnishing is the traditional way, but it means rubbing down right next to where the painted panels join the wood frame. The chance of scratching is quite high - that's why I was wondering about oil rather than varnish. I've even seen examples where the glass has been scratched when the wood...

Morgan cars! I never thought of that. Actually, there is a Morgan dealer where I live in Southport. I might give them a ring tomorrow and see what they say. Cheers Steve

Yes I know. Beautiful, but high maintenance :wink: A replacement frame including fitting is about £2500 + vat :shock: All the more reason to maintain it well. Or, just go for a saloon! Cheers Steve

Thanks for the replies - and the link to the external danish oil. I'm more interested in keeping the wood in good condition rather than any particular "look". Oil sounds like the best way to go. cheers Steve

I'm thinking of getting a Morris Minor Traveller and I've been doing some research. They look great, but I'm wary of the effect that the Great British climate has on the exposed ash woodwork. The woodwork is structural and has to be in good condition - it's part of the MOT. The owners club...

I have some microcrystalline wax left from a previous project, so might try some and see how it looks. Thanks for the ideas. Steve

I hadn't thought of a wax finish. I might try some on the reverse side and see how it looks. The reverse side is also under a carport so gets no water on it, as well as no direct sun, so it might work. My experiment with Sikkens cetol has worked rather well. It has given a decent colour back to...

Thanks for the tip Jacob. I might try it in future with anything else I make from the iroko I have left. Unfortunately, the doors I made now have varnish on, and it's next to impossible to get it off in the difficult to access areas around the frame, etc. Interestingly, the side that never sees...

About 10 years ago I made a couple of external doors using reclaimed iroko, and they looked really good. At first I tried oil as protection - I can't remember which one, but it did claim to have uv protection. With time the iroko faded ( on the side that faces the sun) to a rather unattractive...