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I'm in the market for my first decent sander and I can't decide between them. The plan is for the sander to live mainly in the workshop where it'll eat all manner of different types of wood at various levels of roughness from gnarly to rubbing down for the final finish. With any luck there's a...

In my fairly limited experience oak is quite keen on checking (splitting radially) like this and there's not much you can do about it other than dry the timber slowly and cross your fingers. Those look to be fairly substantial bits of timber so air drying time from green would be substantial...

Fair enough, technically planking can be done by hand. The fact we have planks from before the age of the engine shows it's possible but that doesn't mean it's easy. It looks like a 1 man log saw about a metre long can be picked up for around £50 to 70. Doubt that would be enough to this log...

My guess would be the same as the others, it's not going to be worth planking due to the cost of getting a mill onsite or carting it off to a mill. I wouldn't worry too much about it having gone soft in just 5 months as it's big old lump of wood and it's been sitting around in the winter. I'd...

To clear up any confusion, I'm talking about the the glazing bars - those bits of wood that divide up the sash into smaller panes of glass. I've always known then as muntins although I admit I tend to read older woodworking books. Mullions I always took to be more substantial vertical members...

I must admit I've noticed Screwfix have been really short on stock for the last 18 months, it used to be the case I could pick up almost anything I wanted immediately. I try and use Toolstation as much as I can now though, they are a fraction cheaper and the staff are all friendly and helpful...

I'm designing some new sash windows and I've got a dilemma. Each sash is 2x2 so it's got a horizontal and vertical muntin. Since I don't plan on trying any fancy half lapping that means either the vertical or horizontal will have to be M&T'ed in at the middle. The question is which muntin is the...

Do you have side to side to beams low down on your roof, at the height of the walls (usually called something like roof ties, rafter ties, ceiling joists, etc - Google an image)? It sounds like you don't if you are able to get a useful mezzanine floor up there. If that is the case then I'd...

Possibly a bit late but have a read of this: http://www.theregister.co.uk/2014/11/16 ... ng_rights/ I would say in this situation you are on very firm ground and should be able to get a repair or replacement.

Personally I wouldn't hang the shelf from the purlins. You've said you won't be putting much up there but in my experience the weight quickly adds up and I think there's a risk you could overload the roof timbers. If I'm understanding your garage correctly I think you'd be better off attaching...

Thanks HOJ, as far as the wall goes it's got to be taken down and rebuilt. The timber you can see in the picture is really badly gone but the bits at the bottom of the wall are, well, missing and I'm actually surprised it's not fallen down. The lathes seem to be in quite good shape for some...

After all the work I've done on this rotting pile of Georgian bricks and timber they are going to be carrying me out in a pine box. In fact I'm planning on living a very long time just to get my moneys worth out of the place! Good suggestion though and one that I have seriously contemplated on...

Thanks, I'll certainly look into fitting dummy frames during the build as I wouldn't want all my hard work getting bashed about. My understanding with fitting sashes is that they are slotted in to a recess formed by the outer most skin of brick or block work and all the work is done from...

Thanks for the info. I've been butchering wood for a few years so I'm at the stage where I know which direction to push a plane now ;-). I've read elsewhere that finding suitable sash weights can be a challenge so I'll start the search early. Did you have any problems with building control or...

Yes, they will be sliding box sash windows. Fortunately the windows aren't going in an old part of the house and they are on the back so listed building will probably allow us to use one of the very thin double glazing systems. I'm not all that worried either way as it's not in the main body of...

Hi folks, not been around these parts for a while but I see there are a few names I still recognize, hope everyone is keeping well. Anyway, the title for this post is quite apt as I have a project where all three options are a possibility. We're looking at rebuilding an extension and the quote...

That's not a bad idea. I'm not sure I've got space for two benches in that configuration but two at 1220x1220 might work. I've attached the plan I've got at the moment as it feels fairly good. The items across the top are all on wheels, the idea is that I can wheel the router table in to act as...

Some very good points Andy. For the next year or two a lot of what I'll be doing is working with sheet goods I suspect but after that I'm hoping to do a bit more traditional joinery. I'm going to up the length to 2.4m now. I can't believe I'd forgotten that I'm building a CNC machine, my new...

Unfortunately all the doors and windows have to stay as they are. The top right door is to the main house an my primary access point to the shop. The door on the left is needed to access to the front of the house and the one on the right for bringing stuff in and out. I like the idea of putting...

Perhaps I should put up the plan of the workshop as the layout is practically giving me sleepless nights :-). I'm aiming to make other items in the shop (e.g. the router table) the same height as the bench to act as an extension if needed. I'd like the basic bench to be a single piece though...