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I'd thought something similar but sort of dismissed it as having the same problem with low spots as burning. I read somewhere that french polish doesn't like low spots because of uneven build up which sounds like it makes sense. Indian ink is a good idea though, I was considering trying to...

I'm planning on making a Go board (goban) so that I can use it as a practice piece to learn how to french polish. A Go board is just a flat piece of timber with a grid drawn on it. A full sized board is 19x19 squares but I'm planning on making a 13x13 (with 9x9 on the reverse) for learning the...

Thanks, it's taken a lot of time and effort to get this far. Once the workshop is up and running one of the first jobs is to make the windows and doors for it. I made a some sash windows last year and really enjoyed it, I've not made a door yet though so that should be fun. There should be a...

Great idea, I hadn't seen those quick release clamps before. I think I lazy morning browsing the Axminster site with a coffee is in my future... I've just seen Axminister are doing the CT-90H for about £350, the budget might just stretch to that in a few months, would that have enough suck to...

As a bit of background I've been woodworking for about 15 years (and used to post here quite a bit), this is just the first time I've had a workshop that would warrant a fixed dust extraction system. The new shop is very roughly 6x6m but it's L shaped and has 3 doors so I've got about 25 to...

Hi guys, I'm just starting to fit out my new workshop and I'm thinking of putting in some ducting for dust extraction. At the sucking end I'll have a Record Power DX4000 which has a 100mm connection - it's a bit of a compromise dust extractor as it does reasonable volume (380m^3/hr) but can...

I help a friend fit horse mats a couple of years ago, the thing that really sticks in my mind was how much hard work it was. Having said that this guy could make pouring a glass of water difficult so I'll have a look. They were certainly comfy to walk on.

I'm planning on having a lot of the larger tools on wheel bases so rubber tiles all over the place would be a problem, I'll have a few tiles around the workbench though.

Good call on laminate being slippery I think. The concrete finish I have at the moment is hand trowlled (I wanted power floated but it wasn't possible) and so slightly textured - just textured enough to attract dust like nobodies business. I think I'll probably got for a resin finish. I use the...

That looks like what I'm looking for. Now to decide between the single pack and two pack. If I know me I'll get water, solvent and oil on the floor a some point so I think it might have to be the two pack epoxy. £112 for 20 litres certainly puts it in the right price bracket :-)

Yeah, it'll house my growing collection of woodworking tools and equipment and hopefully in the future a small amount of metal working equipment (e.g. oily stuff). I could probably get away with a 10mm thick flooring if necessary (one day the space may become a kitchen in which case it would be...

No worries, I won't be going near the floor with any finish until I'm completely sure all the moisture is out of it and I'll not work in there until it's sealed at least. There's insulation under the slab, insulation on top or even just a layer of chipboard would be a non-starter for height...

The builders are just finishing my new workshop (at last) and I'm trying to decide what to do with the floor. What I have right now is a trowel finished concrete slab. It's a reasonably good finish but I suspect, like most concrete floors, it'll be dusty. Does any one here have experience with...

Those are some nice looking planks. I don't know what the fungus is but the wood shows signs quiet a bit of spalting so it has been attacked by fungus for a while (spalting is the black marking showing in image 4). You can kill the fungus by kilning but you'd need to either transport the wood to...

BB: Yes, preparing metal work for repainting is definitely worse I've been putting off doing our fancy cast iron porch for about five years now. Unfortunately any specialist paint remover would have to come to me as there's no way it could be moved without breaking something. Time for a quick...

Cheers for that, I saw someone else mention that an aluminium based primer might be a good idea, I'll see if I can find any locally as none of my usual places appear to sell it. I plan on giving linseed paints a go at some point but right now I don't think I really have time to experiment with...

I've just finished building my first sash windows :D and now comes the bit I don't enjoy so much, painting. As I've put in a lot of hours building the windows I'd obviously like them to last so I want to go with a decent selection of paints that will give me a few years before I need to rub...

Advice threads like these almost never seem to get a final post and I'm always left wondering what the OP chose to do. So to avoid frustrating anyone finding this thread I thought I'd report back that I went for the Festool ETS EC 150/5. I don't have much experience with good sanders but I've...

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have the Mirka hand sanding kit and I think it's brilliant, it was one of the reasons I looked at their powered sanders. I was pretty much set on the deros but over night I've been having a look at the ETS EC and I must admit I'm now very tempted. Custard sort...

I think the one thing most people would agree on is the air powered Mikra is great but I can't afford a compressor anywhere near big enough to run it (and then there's the running costs of a several horse power compressor as well). Looking around about the cheapest place for the Deros seems to...