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I would not get a battery powered one, you will need to attach it to a vacuum anyway to get any kind of dust collection. For that money you could get a vacuum a mitre saw and a nice fat extension lead. Also it is not the best designed mitre saw because of its old style rail setup. I would look...

Nice work, you may need a bigger barrel.

I am not offended by this little article or by Paul himself particularly, let him sell his books and hopefully some of his viewers/readers will learn something and enjoy woodworking. I am more a pragmatic as I need to earn a living and could not justify being a "handtool hipster" like that Chris...

I have a spindle moulder with power feed and I find it pretty much essential for making sash windows and stuff like that, and generally useful for a lot of other things besides. I dont think its any more dangerous than other woodworking machines, I think the table saw is probably the scariest...

Try parts shop direct also trading as spare parts world (they have the same phone number ). Found them when looking for an obscure part a while ago, the spareparts world site has really good exploded parts diagrams as well. https://sparepartsworld.co.uk/tools/6984 Ollie

I looked at them before, there is no cheap option. A second hand static machine was the cheapest I found. Some of them don't like doing just a few doors, they are designed for all day use and need warming up and cooling down etc. That is one advantage of the Festool one. It didn't seem worth...

I would sand it down to remove any lumpy or loose bits ( be careful glass scratches easily) . And prime it with something like Tikurilla Otex which is very good at sticking to anything and also covering colours well. If I had enough time or it was very loose then I would chip off all the putty...

Just built a kit guitar, intonation was annoying to get right. The advice I followed in the end was. 1: get the nut height set, 2: set the trussrod for the right relief, 3: set action ( within reason ) 4: adjust intonation at 12th fret. I was struggling with it for ages, in the end my problem...

That is very quiet, just looked at my Sebo for the house and it is a max of 72db and I thought that was way quieter than what we had before. Purely non scientific but I think adding the dust deputy cyclone to my Festool reduced the noise, or at least changed it. Ollie

I do not disagree, quieter is obviously going to be better. My comment was not supposed to be serious, but also true. In a workshop situation using a big router you should have earplugs anyway. I think the pitch of noises can be more critical than the volume when it comes to the annoyance...

Not bad, but it makes very little difference when using a router or a circular saw anyway. Ollie

I don't think a spindle moulder is any more dangerous than a router table and probably less dangerous than a freehand router in practice. Certainly safety is an essential factor but I think being overly scared of the spindle moulder ( or any machine ) is not helpful and can be...

The modern blocks are designed to fit them so won't clamp the wedge on a knife without a balancing limiter ( just a blunt knife a few mm smaller than the actual cutting knife) Ollie

They make it "legal" to use, it is to make the protrusion of the cutter as minimal as possible, supposedly it makes it less likely to pull your arm in, rather just snip off some fingers. Obviously keeping well away from thd skinny bit is actually safest thing, another plus for power feeds. Ollie

Short answer is yes, long answer is you are going to need both. If I was only allowed one it would be a spindle moulder. To say the tooling is expensive is a bit misleading, blocks can be expensive but once you have them they don't wear out, 40mm euro cutters and limiters are very cheap and...

I feel your pain ! Why do they do this. It is so common to have to struggle with door handles and stuff that when I get a proper one that works just right I am surprised. My number one pet peeve is hardware that is pretty decent quality (and often expensive) with screws made of some sort of...

I would go and have a look in person if you can. Stuff like ergonomics and how the fences and guards work are very personal and also related to the work you mainly do. The trouble is that in order to see the stuff you are initially interested in you might need to go past the Martins and stuff...

Must be the resin block itself moving in the aluminium beam. I have seen old brass and wood levels with adjustments for the bubble itself with tiny screws but there must be a need for a "master Bubble" to set it to. Ollie

Are you guys just making up words now ?:LOL:

It has two modes, self leveling mode and locked mode. The locked mode is for setting out angled things like stairs etc. Mine has a mini tripod thing with it, you can magnet it onto metal surfaces ( even a drywall beading ) or hang it on a nail. I bought a tripod for it as well which I recommend...