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What about Soss or Tectus concealed hinges that fit in the end of the leaves. I have used them for butterfly leaf tables before. I am about to use some myself for a job where some old victorian 4 panel doors will be cut in half to make a bifold sort of arrangement, the hidden hinges make it less...

What about a vertical tambour that rolls away into the sides, it would be really cool. you would obviously have to introduce curves to get it to work around the corner but it could be amazing looking.

I am on the make one for free from plywood offcuts team.

Nice work, I remember having to do some bow shaped 8 over 8 sliding sashes, there was some head scratching to get that right. I quite like this sort of job once in a while keeps your brain working. Ollie

I had a bunch of torx head screws but actually found them worse for cam out and they were very easy to damage if you didn`t have them perfectly straight. maybe they were just crap ones, I bought a load in all sizes, ended up giving them away. Saying that I dont mind the torx heads onthe tongue...

Its the radius that matters "D" is the diameter of the cutter. "R" is the radius of the profile. Look at scott and sargeant they do CMT ones.

Not sure we will ever be able to get to the screws or nails again bacause they will be under fibreglass. I am just not relishing putting in so many screws. Nailguns seem so quick. Any particular screw best for this? I guess it needs to have a clearance on the shank with no thread for the top...

I am part way through building a carport, frame is up and joists on. Next time we get a break in the weather for a couple of days I want to put the roof on. We have elected to use fibreglass for reasons of cost, ease of use and aesthetics, considered rubber but that is a very large bit of heavy...

There is a free one called design spark provided by rs online. It is good for electrical stuff and I think you can use their component library. I use Fusion 360 but my mate uses design spark for electric stuff and 3d printing.

Veritas low angle block plane. Probably the most universal plane. The only one with a permanent home in my toolbox.

Just make normal shaker doors with Tulip wood and a plywood panel. Much better job than Mdf and probably easier to make as well.

I agree that these are very annoying to set up. I always get it right with trial and error, carefully keep a couple of offcuts as setup blocks for next time. Then next time I want to use it find the setup blocks have vapourised so trial and error again...

Tormek is just painfully slow. The Axminster has variable speed advantage over the sorby. Knife makers and metalworkers mostly use belt systems or linishing machines. The sorby and axminster are basically linishers tilted upwards with jigs.

I agree, MCS reminds me a little of Fensa. Just because a company is MCS registered does not mean the installers are. There is a huge amount of sub contracting in this industry. I think if you file a g98 or g99, notify building control of the solar panel install (structural on roof etc.) and...

Octopus no longer require MCS certification for their tarrifs. You can still get niciec cetificates for the electrical safety of everything. As long as it is inspected and certified by an appropriately qualified electrician then I can`t see a problem.

This is fascinating and timely for me. I have been looking into getting solar and a battery myself and am quite dissapointed in the quality of the quotations I have had. Many are nonsense and not designed well (obvious even to a non electrician like me) many are using tigo optimisers...

Ok, thanks. Maybe I will be ok as the roof I am doing is open on all sides. Fingers crossed....

This is a little worrying, I am about to build a 9m by 6.5m car port roof and was going to use fibreglass. I have done both epdm and fibreglass before with no issues, though not as big as this. The fibreglass supplier said that it should be fine not to add expansion joints if under 100m2 so we...

Used to use it when we had to contractually and was trained by them how to use it all etc. but it has always been stupid expensive. I use timbabuild ERC 10 mostly. My idea is that mainly I replace the timber with new timber and only use the timbabuild as a splicing adhesive/ filler. Using this...

If it was me I would probably knock it down and replace it with a timber or sips building, then you can make it insulated and waterproof. But if you need to keep the existing sides I would fix some kind of ring beam around the top to your desired angle, fix joists and put an OSB 3 deck on...