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Guess they have changed there ways. When building our place 6-7 years ago they were well priced. Admittedly pricing was down to the discretion of the guy behind the counter but usually work out cheap enough and way more choice than Screwfix/Toolstaition at the time.

Moved a Felder Combi on my own. It splits into two so two pieces around 500kg. Got it to the workshop door with mini rollers which where 10mm x 200mm bolts with the heads cut off. Slid out the door onto a sheet of sacrificial ply (18mm). Now the easy bit here was just roped the ply to a small...

Cant hurt removing the table and cleaning up all the fixing points but it would take a lot to pull a table that far out. Good it's still under warranty as I think you may need it.

Had this on a bandsaw a few years back. I just set it up so it was square to left of the blade as this is where I usually would use a high fence.

Admit to being sceptical when I was told this but it was for a slab that had a second DPM laid over the top but not sure he knew that at the time.

Yep this is what a building control officer told me. His view was good concrete was pretty much waterproof on it's own but the DPM would let it dry slowly and so stronger. For a shed I would just use some paving slabs and timber bearers.

3. Got some very heavy doors here nearly a meter wide so big load on the hinges and they are fine on 3.

Like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Outdoor-Garde ... 1279013135

Thanks Hitch I went down the rivet rout and have got steel/steel rivets. They are working well for my needs :)

Ah gotcha Yes wouldn't use epoxy graphite for that

Pretty ugly grain. Folks had an external door made in it and has moved around a bit which was disappointing.

I was mulling over why the two different ways were used on the boat as it was many years ago. I think Epoxy was used on the thinner teak that was laid on a ply substrate. In this situation it was considered stable. The boat is now 14 years old and neither system has any problems in a marine...

Presume we you are talking about the black lines? Helped with one boat build and two ways this was done. One was black Sikaflex from a gun. Other parts of the teak deck had epoxy mixed with black graphite powder for the filer.

This guy puts a good case for the imperial system https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... 7x-RGfd0Yk

Yes the guy over stepped the mark but I can see this from both sides. He shared a way to clean up a waterstone and immediately got pounced on over flattening of stones. IMO there is a lot of OTT sharpening threads on here and he was probably trying to nip that it in the bud from the start. Yes...

For pine I would just use the Polyurethane.

Hi. Yes I have used a pretty much identical vice screw and its been good for 25 years. The timbers are beech and iroko but neither were chosen for there hardness. Got a piece of leather on the inner jaw to aid grip. Not at the workshop now but the vice is pretty much like this...

Thanks all. Have gone for the expensive Axminster one. I can see the Ebay ones would do the job but it's a present for a major birthday so just going to pay the extra as it will give him reassurance in tool.

I have realised the snag with the Sorby guide is you set up the two parts at each end of the grinder. The grinder he has is a grinder one end and a water stone the other. Cant see an easy way to swap between the two. Found this at Axminster that allows him to swap at will. Any thoughts on it...

Second what Bob said