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We had a SH Karcher which was rated for 110 bar. It recently died and picked up the petrol offering from Lidl. Not sure on bar but it blows the Karcher away. Had to clean out one of our barns which had previously been cleaned with the Karcher and it was like chalk and cheese. It's possible the...

Bring a few bits up next week and we will see how much we can get prepped :D

I am not normally a stickle for HSE but I would highly recommend clamping down wood and especially metal. If a bit binds and the work starts spinning all hell could break lose. Sure someone on here will have some horror stories on the subject.

I do woodwork and metalwork on the same press. I just use a couple of G clamps to hold the vice in place. Ditto for holding the wooden base in place. Give it a quick wipe down to clean off swarf before going back to wood. Welcome by the way :D

Again never used a mortiser that automatically raised but never tried a Multico.

Foam core? Lot easier than building up the lattice I just saw when googling torsion box.

Have a few corners in ours and was bothered about expansion and shrinkage in the corner joint. Solution was a combination of things. One length has home cut structural veneer on ply with solid front edge solid wood where it was free to expand and shrink. Hard to explain the whole thing but could...

Yes if you want responsive don't go for wet UFH. In our place it's open plan and house is kept at a steady temperature through UFH and powered by a ground source heat pump. No idea what the electric UFH is like.

Thing is Peter no two houses are the same. We have wooden floors upstairs with UFH but they are plenty warm enough because the whole house is insulated to a high standard so you get little variation between rooms. With lower levels of insulation problems from room to room will show their heads...

Carpet is an insulator so never going to be as good as tiled or slate covering. On the other hand if you have very good insulation under the UFH the heat will inevitably come out into the room. We have UFH and mainly tiled floors but have carpet in one room. It warms up enough but cant really...

Must be something wrong with my Sugoi. Never thought it anything special but is handy on occasion.

Get well Bob. £20 is no compensating for back pain IME. Found a fiver in my jeans yesterday :D but it's one of the now out of dat ones :twisted:

It's not perfect for every occasion but I love it on darker woods oak, cherry, mahogany type and walnut. Would use Osmo on lighter woods that I want light maple, ash etc. It's all down to individual tastes though. Be boring if we all like the same thing :D

Might be of help to some https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZzFL05CENI

Got an old blade? Might be able to get a saw sharpening place to braze on 4 or 6 wider TCT teeth and grind accordingly.

In all honesty if you just want to crosscut for logs just get a decent bowsaw and blade. Just looked at a couple of videos of them in action and it does no look especially quick. Silky's blunt like any other saw but when a blade costs 2/3 of a new saw it's not funny. Few quid for a new blade for...

Fair enough. Was making sure you had not missed that post :D

What was wrong with the Felder blade Pac1 mentioned? http://uk.feldershop.com/en/Sawing/Groo ... utter.html

Do most folk change blades for cutting different thickness woods on the bandsaw? Cant say I ever change them for this reason and never had a problem. Admittedly I am very rarely looking to finish straight from the blade so course marks are no bother and never found it harms the blade cutting...

Thanks but in all honesty one big joint like this is very easy to do.