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I have not gone that far but have put the finished windows and frame upright in a tray of preserver so it can soak deep into the wood. Does soaking it before glueing not make the joints expand and mess up the joint fit?

Not made loads of windows and most have been stained not painted but would definitely recommend a good soaking in clear wood preserver before painting.

Pretty close to £50 http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-m8101k ... 7Qod-_wL8A

Yep 5 1/2 and a 060 1/2 Both good planes after a bit of TLC

That's what Flymo use now. Don't think any two stroke will last long without oil. Sorry OP not much help I know.

If you want it to be strong think you are going to have to fill it with a structurally strong gap filling glue like Cascamite or Resin. Quite easy to blend colours into the resin to help disguise it but it's never going to look great.

Yes another for Padauk.

You been missing out Chris? Had plenty enough here over the last month but we are on Dartmoor. Everything is green and lush

Most cheap planes can be tuned to do a half decent job. Fettled a few planes for folk over the years and even the naffest ones can be made to take reasonable shavings. Get the sole flat, blade sharp, good fitting cap iron and close up the mouth (if designed to do so) and it will work. Sure a...

You say it's cast end bench. Has it been outside in the elements? It could be teak!

Hard to make out the colour. As said could be ash but if its a bit more orange it may be sweet chestnut

If you are going to get a new one this might be of interest http://www.axminster.co.uk/creusen-hp71 ... r-ax365458

Hi Chris. I would leave it before starting planing again. It might straighten out when the moisture in the wood evens out (it might get worse) either way best to wait and see then plane it flat.

When leaving a prepped board best to leave it so that any change of humidity will affect both side equally. Easiest way to do this is to leave it on edge. Missed this thread before but IMO a 5 1/2 is a great choice and that and a block plane are now the only two planes I ever use.

As above. You can get so close to perfectly round like this. no need to mess around with lathes.

=D> This whole crazy system did my head in when building our house. It was just as the new regularized timber was becoming the norm. All the architects drawings were done based on the old imperial being what they claimed but could only get planed regularized wood which was undersized. Had to...

For powertool the best has to be my Elu routers 177E and 96E. Both 25 years old and going strong. Worst would be a cheap angle grinder that lasted about 10 mins before burning out. By design always thought reciprocating sanders were pretty pointless and not much quicker than a cork pad with...

"Is This Acceptable" IMO yes but disappointing none the less. AMBW and american cherry can have large amounts of sapwood so if a job is important would always go and hand pick boards. The dealers have had to pay to get this wood in stock and it's inevitable someone is going to get it. Think you...

If it were me would seal the worktop thoroughly first then silicone or maybe use a neoprene type seal as it then is much easier to remove the sink when major maintenance is required.. Reason being that yes the silicone my or may not perfectly bond to the oiled top but if water does ingress...

As said I wouldn't cantilever it off the table but with some extra legs cant se why it wouldn't work. As a table extension would imagine it would be very handy. As for hitting the blade when routing long lengths maybe the router fence can be set up at a slight angle to avoid hitting the blade of...