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If it were me I would go belt and braces approach. PU, Cascamite or West system west resin. Also would use exterior grade ply but I guess if you know it's not going to get properly wet you will be OK with poplar ply and water resistant glue.

If it's a regularly used jig this might be worth incorporating in it's base http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-sl ... 6mm-340219

Surprised at the dislike for Idigbo. Found it pretty good to work and took mouldings well. Most stable wood I have ever used with very small seasonal movement which is boon for external work. Only problems I had was it was relatively soft and got damaged on a door threshold. Would take it over...

Made some external doors for next door out of idigbo. They are finished in sikkens but no sign of any leaching in the 5 or so years that have past. The only issue that I know of with it is it's reaction to iron causing staining much like oak does as pointed out by Custard. Most external hardware...

Think for soundproofing the insulation you want is RS60 which is a high density Rockwool. The other thing that can help is resilient strips which help decouple the plasterboard from the stud work

I did a dividing wall here that we we were pushed for space so used 3x2. It's perfectly good but I would go to 400 centres.

Never felt the need for a precise guide on mine. With a bit of practice you can hold a chisel or plane within a degree or two which is more than good enough IMO

Not used the the Draper but got an old Lion Brand horizontal wet stone grinder. It's all I have used for 25 years. Works very well with no bother. If careful you can even flatten the backs of blades and the 800 grit water stone it comes with cuts quickly. Have no idea why they are not more...

I use that system a fair bit. So quick to do and no messing around making slots for the screws to sit in.

Acrylic varnish works well on birch ply if you want to keep it pale.

What you need is one of these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLaBFkeHG0A but suspect the price might be prohibitive :D As said above just make a few curved cuts is some scrap to clean the rust off.

First rule of woodworking according to David Savage "though shalt not bleed on the work" In all seriousness glad it's not worse and heel quick

=D> :D

Yes no problem not adding salt. I have on occasion forgotten to put in the salt and the loaf looks much the same as with. Texture and taste is not quite the same though. Also using a Panasonic bread machine

Maybe I am misunderstanding here but if you cut the tails first (the draw side) you lay this over the end grain of the draw front and back and mark through the pin slot to mark the pins. Nice vertical marking with no obstruction. If do the pins first you have to mark through the gap which is...

I have always done tails first. It's just the way I was taught but think the reason given was that it was easier to mark tails from the pins than vice versa. Cant see it matters if you get the results you require.

Got a grade B from Axminster some years back and it was joke (a bad one) Not square in either plane. Tried another and same problems. Paid the upgrade to Moore and Wright and all spot on. I doubt they were all that bad but guess quality control where they were made was pretty sloppy. I should...

The way my 177 centring device works is a cone you put in the chuck. You partly screw on the guide plate to the base leaving a touch of slack. Lower the cone onto the top of the 30mm sleeve and lock in place, then tighten the pan head screws to finishing tightening the base plate. No idea what...

Yep those are the ones you want. Just run the jigsaw against a straight baton clamped to the ply for a nice straight cut.

Only had Bosch before but now got a Liebherr which is the quietest I have experienced. Partly down to the fact it's so well insulated it does not run much