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A log in the round more often than not will split regardless of how you treat it. I am poor at explaining these things but found a little article that should help https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2011/ ... shrinkage/ Smaller the diameter the better chance you have of a defying the rules and...

I use sheradised and they seem to hold up well.

With T & G dont glue the joins and leave expansion space. Never easy to work out how much to allow for expansion and shrinkage though and feel your pain. I did the same many years ago with some garage doors and glued up the T & G. They have survived but crack to hell during the summer and...

I Roger. One thing you will probably be asked to do once you can find a fault number is plug another corded phone into the master socket to help make sure the fault is not in the premises or the phone itself. The master socket is behind the cover of one of the outlets in the home. At least this...

Yep much better put :D It's just to make sure you have all the pieces at the same moisture content on both sides.

I use solid steel rules for all smaller dimensions up to a meter and then have to use a tape. So much easier if they match up

I could only check my Stanley over a meter against a Rabone solid steel rule (which I trust). Over the meter it was 1mm out. Thought that a lot for an expensive rule but no idea how far out it was over a greater distance. The Screwfix cheapy was within a nats whisker of spot on over a meter.

Another thing is to make sure they are all at same moisture content when laminating. Dont leave one face down and the others able to breath both sides prior to the glue up. Ideally leave over night as if they were in toast rack. Hope that makes sense.

Yep I have noticed this in the past. Surprisingly the worst was a metal cased Stanley and the best was a Screwfix cheapy but doubt any two are quite the same.

My Rabone straight edge will stand on it's 2.25 mm edge happily enough not that I use that edge. I use the thinner tapered edge and hold it in one hand hand while sighting as the finer the edge makes it easier to pick up errors and less risk of being influenced by saw dust.

A 20" bar is not going to allow you to mill very broad planks. The mills like the Alaskan reduce your cutting depth considerably. I use a Stihl MS 460 (76cc) with 25" bar and I have been advised by those more experienced than myself that its a bit on the small side for milling. It does manage...

You may be able to muddle through with a level for setting planer tables but I doubt you can get it very accurate and without doubt way easier with a proper straight edge. I am not one for having every gadget going but I have always been of the view that marking out work and setting up machines...

No. I Just have an old Rabone Chesterman one that's been and still is superb but dont think you can get them now. Sure there must still be new steel ones out there though. A quick search shows Maun at the cheaper end and Veritas if you have deeper pockets.

I would look for a steel straight edge. If you are using a marking knife its surprisingly easy to accidentally take a shaving of Aly.

Can help with construction as we built a 26 foot sloop rigged sailing boat. All Laminated construction with West System. Cant advise on design though.

Here you go

It can be used as a wiper or compression seal. Used it throughout our house on doors and windows as a compression seal without a problem. Will have a hunt about to see if I can find the instructions which came with it.

Yep definitely looks like Iroko now

I would also say Iroko. Not easy as it looks heavily sun bleached.

Nice advice chaps but think you might need to go back to school for the timber ID :lol: