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You could just keep it stupidly simple. Draw on your 32mm circle and cut grind away all you dont want. Had to make a disc in 2mm stainless recently and after lots of complicated deliberation just did the above with much better than expected results. If you are needing lot I would look for a...

I help fit kitchens from time to time normally with solid wood worktops like oak and beech. This is fine for simple layouts but for more complicated kitchens allowing for the expansion and shrinkage of the worktop can be a bit of a headache. Went into a Homebase the other day and saw some bamboo...

I have always used this http://uk.feldershop.com/en/Workshop/Cl ... Gleit.html as I am paranoid about waxes affecting gluing but probably not necessary.

I feel you pain as I cant find a replacement for ours that we A like and B think will last more than 5mins. Stupid thing is we have a cheapo contract one in our utility room that has outlasted all our kitchen ones and cost about £15!

Presume you have tried lubing the thicknesser table? It's the usual reason for rollers slipping

I would say not Franke. Had one with our sink and our slightly acid water just corroded through the side of it in no time. Very thin walled. Inlaw's had a very expensive Franke SS one and that separated at the join. Watching with interest as our Franke replacement has just broken as well grrrrrr.

Made ours from birch ply. Not difficult as such if you keep it simple but as it's custom there is a temptation to complicate matters to suit the space. Building the cabs was quick but painting them with multiple layers of varnish seemed to take forever. Never used pocket hole screws but do they...

No. Looks like Keruing to these eyes

Not done it but would be easy. Build a T section which will locate in the guid rail. Fix an appropriate piece of MDF to the T section and clamp the MDF between the cams. Now you can fit whatever you want to the MDF. A fence at 45 degrees and some toggle clamps would do the mitres. Got to dash...

Excellent. They must have lost so much trade from giving up the catalogue. I know darn well I pretty much stopped using them when it went. Hate online browsing

Another for Custards approach. Get the guard over the block lower if you can as well

Nice one Custard =D> My father in law helps out at one in Christchurch. A very good little charity with many giving there spare time to sharpen and sort the tools provided.

Best option really but glue is not there to fill the gaps. The joints need to be good with no hairline cracks in the dry glue up.

West system is very thin without thickener and will run into very thin cracks. Presuming Titebond is not gap filling so more glue would not have added much more strength just would have filled the cracks. West system is nothing like Araldite epoxy.

If you can make them slightly concave along the length one clamp can be enough. I must admit to rarely doing this but it can be done. I would probably be looking at five for 1.8m. Doubt you can re-glue but I would use epoxy resin to fill if you felt the joint was otherwise sound. Did you clamp...

I had a cheap Freud BJ. Yes the fence was the weak link but it could still be made to do precise work. The fence was cast but would not sit naturally parallel with the blade but it was easy to allow for with a slight adjustment when tightening it up. If you are consistent with how you plunge and...

I had a Startrite Cyclair with a 750 watt motor. It could move one helava lot of chip mind you think that was on a 6" hose.

Cant be Jacob as there some sort of guide on the stone. Nice Job Dennis and looks like you live in a beautiful part of the world.

I have used Baratine clear preserver with long lasting results. Give it a few days to fully dry before applying the Sikens

Not read it but often hear Walter Segal referred to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Out-Woods-Ecol ... 1898049122