Search results for query: oxalic acid

+1 for oxalic acid. MM

Oxalic acid? (to remove the staining)

...for encouragement, Custard. After much thought... Now that I have stripped it to pine looking colour and got rid of the black spots with Oxalic acid, I would like to get a slightly lighter colour than the Liberon oil gives and as the table was before the strip. I dont like that aged yellowish...

Scrub it with Oxalic acid. Buy it in crystal form on eBay, mix it with warm water and get on your knees with a scrubbing brush.

Hi when I served my apprenticeship as a french polisher, we used to used oxalic acid in crystal/powder mixed with hot water, not pleasant stuff to use, but did the job. I remember the awful taste you got when sanding afterwards. hope this helps RF

Or alternatively used the synthetic denibbing pads (like Scotch scourers) favoured by auto body finishers, You can also get bronze wool as well these days for use on tannin timbers such as oak, chestnut, walnut, mahogany, etc I suspect that the finish will need to be scraped back, the item...

...wanting to throw it away as it isn't cheap and I don't like wasting wood, My questions are as follows, 1. Can I just use a bleach or oxalic acid solution to clean off the mould. Will it return it to near its original condition 2. Once the mould is cleaned off, will I be able to use it in...

Thanks for the new replies folks, very much appreciated. Yesterday I treated all the nail heads with the oxalic acid and have to say it's done a great job of removing the stains. Even the really big, dark stains. However, I guess they will just come back as the nail continues to oxidise? A...

K10 was I believe sold as an accelerator for cascamite put on one side of the joint, but a friend of old just used oxalic acid either mixed in or on the other face.

Like Mr Snodgrass I use oxalic acid for removing stains. I have a saturated solution which I apply locally, although you may find it leaves a lighter patch then you'll need to treat the whole surface. I am not as cautious about it as Mr S, but would beware of sanding after application as the...

...tables waiting. I think she forgets I'm a novice. But, I'm getting more confident armed with the advice given freely on here. I used the oxalic acid. Got some the day before I went away. It worked like magic. Two small grey areas left to do again, but every other mark disappeared. Really...

...touches the iron sash cramps during a glue up and then gets wet while the glue squeeze out is being washed off. The answer is Oxalic Acid, a mild bleach that seems to work particularly well with oak. I've never used it remove a coloured finish but it's probably worth a try in an inconspicuous...

...should do most of the tools. I'll save judgement on using it on the really important bits till i've tried it repeatedly. If EDTA fails, Oxalic Acid is my next port of call. I've also ordered new oilstones , so I can use my old carbonundrum cheapie to take offoff any severe pitting/awkward...

I've never bleached Ash but I have bleached a couple of paler timbers including Holly and Sycamore. Couple of points, - The Oxalic Acid and household bleach routes are just for stain removal, for lightening wood the two pack bleach is the only option. - It really does work, but only the surface...

black spots on stripped oak is traditionally removed with oxalic acid. Can any of the chemistry types on here offer input as to why when treated with the OA, the spots vanish (as you would expect) only to re appear 3 weeks later?! tried everything.... next stop - Hydroflouric acid AKA rust...

I've searched the forum without much success. I thought oxalic acid was recommended but seem to have misremembered that. Certainly I had a go on some oak and it made diddly squat difference. I'm after that weathered look. TIA

What type of bleach are you using? If it is domestic bleach, it will do very little. I would firstly use oxalic acid in a strong solution with as hot as you can get water. If that did not get rid of the marks I would use A+B ( hydrogen peroxide )

Nice. I reckon a dip in some oxalic acid for a bit and the record block plane will be as good as new. :-"

+1 for Oxalic acid crystals, and they last for ages diluted, just make sure after dipping, you rinse in water, then pop it into a solution of soda crystals to neutralize the acid, then rinse again and after give it a coat of something to prevent flash rusting.

...one has stains and the other dies not; but I do know that oak / ash = very strong effect. If you prefer the lighter wood effect, then you could try oxalic acid - mixed into a paste then brushed on - but keep in mind at best you'll only reduce the staining and never get a totally uniform effect.