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Stunning Chris. Looks amazing. You could have used a block plane to cut the fin box down (sorry i didnt see it yesterday) but a flush cut saw is just as correct a tool if not more so. A weeks curing time seems about right. Is the next project to sew a bag for it?

I'd be tempted to go slightly deeper and glue a piece in the base of the hole before you fill with resin. only needs to be 2mm more.

@Osvaldd don't bring a useful tool to a ridiculous argument. :) a jolly lovely coopers plane there though. :)

It's not the size of the boat but the motion in the....... sod that. If your going to have one, it might as well be a big one. :)

thats just showing off. :) taking what our illustrious species has been doing for a surprisingly long time and turning it up to 12 (11 having already been reached). Thanks for sharing. not quite as grand, but still complex (tall, top heavy structure)...

the only true way to test for damp in plaster and brick is to drill out a sample then use a calcium carbide chamber. basically when moisture comes in to contact with CC it reacts and produced acetylene gas, the pressure of which can be monitored and correlates to the amount of moisture in the...

wouldn't fret to much on vibration, it's going to be pretty minimal. I'd still be tempted to drill out most of the waste before you cut the slot, reduce the amount of work the router has to do. that's just me though. :)

Yep. Be fine to simply attach a rail too the board and guide the router along it. You arent taking 1 cut so 25mm bit is fine. 3-4mm each pass. You can run it out on the shank a bit to so you get a deeper final cut. Say 10mm of shank stuck out the collet. How to attach something without...

Yep, that'll work. I use my Katsu for this sort of thing all the time. normally with a bearing bit, but I've done like you show before for a book slot on a project. Start with router tilted so the bit isn't in the wood then slowly tilt till it's flat. job jobbed. I've also used the normal...

I had two children. so when I destroy a kidney, liver, lung, etc. I now have a few spares. does that count as prep?

2 options. hog out the waste with a suitable drill bit then use a template and a guide bush. 2 use a dado bit with a template. 3. use a top bearing cutter and a template. I'd still take out as much of it as possible with a drill, also, masking tape and super glue to hold the template down...

same process as a car. g3 is fine, quite likely that g4 isn't available anymore. I don't do much these days and definitely not on any real scale so I tend to use scratch remover or a wax held compound on a buffer wheel. I'm planning to varnish my guitar kit build so will be buffering that out...

Hit it with g4 then see.

The mig and compressor at the time (stuff that couldn't be sat on the rails), now a 2 shelve cabinet with the belt sander and the scroll saw on. it was cut back by about 3" after the picture.

4 years later (I think, but it seems like longer) and my CLS workbench is still going strong. got a few dings, some interesting stains and a few burn marks. If and when it dies I'll build another in exactly the same way. it's 4 side on, 4 flat, 4 side on and it's more than stable enough for...

2x3 laminated across the width. don't give a ....... about it being hardwood, I'd rather have the bench get dinged than the work get dinged.

maybe. a DA is a bit quicker than ROS but I can't see why it wouldn't work, not tried it though.

I used G4 cutting compound same as I'd use for any fibreglass polishing (and something I had in 5 litre tubs at the time). I also had access to a machine polisher last time I did it, but it can be done by hand. surfboard polish sounds like small bottles of massively marked up normal polish...

meh. still looks stonking. scary part next. the polishing. start at 800 and work your way up. :) it's the bit I find most scary, not sure why. I don't think I could have left the underside alone without staining it, it looks really good as is.

Hair dryer about half way through the cure to pop the bubbles. Looks spanking that.