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If you dont smack your knuckles you arent using it correctly. :)

Nope, reckon we are about the same. We used the on hovercraft (they fly too). For none stuctural youll be fine with minimal clearance, for structural i think id agree with you. We used thenlm on airframes for none stuctural, skins on light aircraft and the like.

Not sure whats traditional about wood over metal frame but apparantly its made with traditional techniques. I think it might not hide any such frame its just over priced laminate construction claiming to be solid oak. Think if i were interested on it id email asking if its soild or laminate...

And here me and AES differ for a change. Only on the shank length and hole dim though. You can get away with a little bit of slop as the rivet body will expand in the hole to accommodate (+- a thou or so). Everything else id agree with.

They are really meant for sheet work. I do have some long shank rivets, they are for joining 3mm grp to 3mm aluminium (amoungst otger stuff inclluding some 20mm shanks). Not your typical use though. I dont think ive ever used a plier type on them though. The rivet only needs.0.5 to 1mm...

this is about the only way I'd be happy with an all wood "Z frame". purely because of the width of the "leg" shifts the forces inboard considerably making it more like a 2 leg table.

jams are common on all plier type rivet guns. jam the next rivet in to clear the old pin and get on with it. :)

Assuming there is a mortise and tenon in there, then it's an OK way of jointing but still a crap way of balancing the forces applied. you can see the rear top joint is separating on the picture. Basically It's a bell crank which will increase the torque applied to the joints, you have a small...

We swapped the decaf and the real stuff round. Lasted about a month. Got em both ways. :D

you don't wash mugs That's disgusting. No one want's to taste soap suds. :)

funny enough I did the same with my titan saw. the handwheel is crap, it's not that the machine cant tension a 1/2" blade (as evidenced by the fact that is what's on mine at the moment) I used an M8 connector nut and a spanner as already suggested. might make a new hand wheel at some point.

the Katsu comes with a spare set doesn't it? swap them out and clean the commutator (the bit the brushs run on) while your at it. a little bit of isoproypl alcohol and an ear bud through the brush hole should do it.

well if you're offering bud, no sugar.

obviously you are all incorrect. you must now follow this standard, if you do not follow the standard you will be sent for thought realignment. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_3103

the way this weeks going I think I'll need my dried frog pills by tomorrow.

But its got kinky blue alien sex in it. Oh wait, i see your point.

Surprising but glad you're sorted. Personally id have put a new contactor in but if your mates willing to rewire it then all power to your elbow. Whata the motor rated at on it? Just out of interest.

Cant look on phone. Ill look in the morning for you and send a link. While you have it there you might as well test it and the other one with your test lamp. This one should turn the bulb off when pressed. Should only be a few quid for a new one at most.

didn't happen without pictures. :) should be apart number on the button. hopefully.

Because what he has there is considered saver than an NVR, all the high amperage stuff remains well away from your fingers and can be isolated to one area of the machine. lets agree to disagree on this one Bob. anyways lets say your switches are laid as you show them with the red switch to the...