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Helpful hint, take them off the feet first.

No reason why not but for a chunk of wood with a v cut in it id make a rough and dirty steady. Im lucky in that i have a hollow spindle, so id run the long end through the chuck and have 2" stick out in front. If i didnt have that option I would most like put a stedy right by the cut and rest...

Can you not use a form tool for a 5mm cut? I can. I havent got a lathe here at the moment (its still in nottingham but hopefully not for much longer) so i did this on the less than ideal drill press using my compound vice as a tool post. Didnt regrind the tool geometry much, just a touch of back...

Always told just below centre but thats only to deal with catching in hardening steels. Everything else can be done at centre. With a modern parting off tool (sliding hss or carbide insert) you may need to do as AES says. If you grind your own its less of an issue as you should grind a back...

Old shoe sole works alright.

then it isn't a parting off tool, it's a grooving tool or knifing tool as already described. a parting off tool has a specific geometry (figure F on my previous image). note the side and back clearance angles, these serve to allow a deeper cut than a standard tool at the expense of strength...

parting off tool. clue is in the name. wrong tool for the job.

the bible has a bit about grinding tools for brass in it. (good book, worth owning, the bible) they call it a knife tool where I'd always known it as a grooving tool profile. Profile D.

I mean proceed as normal (but with care given to catching as you turn that area).

leave it. its a feature. :) wet wood and epoxy are'nt a good combination for longevity.

but that wouldn't fit with 1.5mm deep x 5mm across approx 25mm from one end. there are to many dimensions for a flat that would be 1.5x25mm and still not be doable on a lathe in standard guise. I still think it's something like an oring groove (oh, groove is the right term for that :) ) I'm...

The 350rpm suggest circumference. Unless he's milling on his lathe (possible) but then the live centre seems an odd choice. :)

agree with you there and it's not the right word but it'll do because I can't think what the right word would be right now. :)

I'm reading it as all the way round rather than a keyway Droogs. if I'm wrong, then I wouldn't be reaching for machine tools at all, I'd use a file. :)

1.5mm is half the rod diameter. I'd mount it as close to the chuck as I can, put a steady on the other end ((just a roller for it to settle on), I wouldn't put that end on a centre as your putting force on the rod that will make it want to bow, hence the break. I'd grind a grooving profile at...

Think it is safe to say it isn't pedal assist.

If I was going down the pilot hole route I'd take a bog standard HSS 13mm jobbers bit and grind a stepped bit (think pocket screw jig bit). you can have a d 5mm first stage to drill the pilot hole and the 13mm second stage to drill to any depth (except all the way through). then I'd do the drill...

Brad point bit. Drill 90% of the way though for all holes. Flip and use the tiny hole that results from the brad just going all the way through to finish the hole. I do this with fostner bits when i dont want tear out. Edit : beaten to the punch by seconds. Dang nabbit Cabinet man.

Very much an American tool. For what they do, they are great. For almost everyrhing else, they are a crude tool. Look for essential craftsman amd his video on them, unlike mbm he's a time served framer who has used them along with framing squares (a tool i consider to be better tham a speed...

I reach for my 1/4" regularly, I use it for pattern following at which, it is fantastic. the 1/2" gets used less often, but when needed is the only tool for the job. personally, for 400 quid, I'd splash 200 on the 1/2" and buy a katsu 1/4" for 30-40 quid. the remain 60 quid will get you...