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It won't be long before it's overflowing with junk (or stuff that will "come in handy one day even if I never use it").

Ha. A clash of knobs (as it were) is never a good thing... In seriousness, I wondered whether the knob might get in the way and considered having a cut out at the top of the drawer so I could get a hand in to open it (with the downside of letting dust in). In the end I was impatient to get it...

I’ve added a drawer to my workbench (following the Paul Sellers video). Making things for the workshop has been a good way of practising different joints (the drawer added half blind dovetails, housing dados and wedged tenons to the repertoire) and techniques whilst still getting something...

I think it looks fantastic.

I've got lath and plaster studwork in my house and using a magnet works brilliantly for that. It's quick and easy to find a line of nail heads which is a pretty good give away. You need a strong magnet. I got one of the rare earth magnets and it's good and strong. (Amusingly, it was...

I thought twice about sharing this after marvelling at Bob’s lovely work :shock: , but here’s a stool I made with pine left over from my workbench. The design (which I made up) is a bit chunk really, but it’s only for me to rest my pins on in the workshop. It was good practice for other...

I wondered about a gents saw for dovetails but was a bit worried about the handle shape making it harder to cut square/at the right angle. Perhaps I shouldn’t be worrying about that?

Thanks Mike. The back seemed to be hard down on the saw plate, which was already curved, so taking it off seemed the right thing to do. I also like taking things apart...

So I bought a couple of saws on eBay and, following Deema’s marvellous guide on this forum, had a bash at “restoring” one of them. The larger saw I bought does actually cut reasonably well so I’m going to leave that one as is for now until I’m more confident. For now I concentrated on a small...

I can only offer my sympathy - it's a real shame after all the effort you've put in.

Finished constructing my workbench (Paul Sellers design). Just needs some oil to finish it off now. I enjoyed making it and learnt a lot. I’m looking forward to using it now.

Well done for getting it finished.

Will do (if it's not too embarrassing...)

Bod, I'm really sorry for not replying to this but I only just spotted it. That's a very kind offer which I will certainly keep in mind as I'm not too far away at all (near Basingstoke). I've actually bought a couple of old saws on ebay and I'm going to have a go at re-cutting the teeth...

Here’s a photo of my wedges.

Mike, This is something I’ve been wondering about myself (I think it was also raised in another thread about this bench design). To tap the top of the wedges you would need to remove the bench top because the wedges go very near to the underside of the bench top. However, I suspect you can...

That's a good idea. Sellers' design has a small wedge "retainer" - just an offcut screwed on the inside of the apron at one end and which can rotate down over the wedge and up against the leg (the end of the retainer is cut on an angle so it stops against the leg and can't rotate further down)...

I'm making a Seller's style bench and have just done the leg wedges. Marking it out was easy enough. I cut the housings with a (electric) router though. As you'll have seen from the videos Paul cuts his with chisels and router plane. You're going to need to cut the housing for the leg...

Yes, I'm viewing the joint cutting as good practice for future work.

Thanks for all of the helpful replies. I'd already bought the saw in the link. As I said, it worked fine but it was slow and tedious work cutting the cheeks. I've got half of the tenons left to cut so I might give the chisel technique suggested by Mike G a go. Deema, thanks for advice and...