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I’ve found the AMZ3D PLA on Amazon good. It seems to have gone up in price a bit - I thought it was around £15 but perhaps it was on offer when I bought it.

Thanks, I’ll definitely bear that in mind. My son is my first port of call and he hasn’t failed yet. It’s usually something like: “oh, you just need to create an offset plane and do it from there” :shock:

Great project! I've always fancied having an arcade game.

In terms of raw materials (spools of plastic), it would cost "pence". I can't give you an accurate figure, but a 1kg spool of plastic costs around £15 (for good quality). You can get a pretty reasonable printer (e.g. a Reality Ender 3) for a little over £200. I've done some dust extraction...

I thought I'd make a separate post about a potential flaw in the construction which struck me when I woke up this morning. The issue relates to the central panel which has breadboard ends. As with a "normal" breadboard end, I have a tight fitting and glued middle tenon and loose outer tenons...

Having got it all built, I have since been sanding it to get it ready for some kind of finish (probably hard wax oil). The only other things which remain are: 1. getting some brass brackets made to replace the 3D printed plastic ones. The plan is for my dad to make those (silver soldering...

I've been slammed with work over the past couple of weeks, but things calmed down just in time for me to be able to get stuck in properly over the long weekend. Unfortunately, in my enthusiasm I didn't take any pictures as I went along. The last major task I had to do was to make the mechanism...

I watched a Rob Cosman video the other day about a bench he made. He made a sliding carriage for his lamp so it slides along the top of rear apron to wherever he wants it.

stunning.

What a great idea Merlin!

Rob Cosman uses a method where he offsets the tail board by the thickness of the saw kerf and then makes very distinct saw marks in the pin board (offsetting one way for one side of each pin, and the other way for the other side). He can then cut IN the lines on the pin board to get the right...

I think it looks great. I'll soon need to make a decision about what finish to put on the desk I'm making. I think my wife would probably vote for something like Osmo raw. It's always a tricky decision.

I've also used autosol on an MDF strop but haven't tried it on the leather.

It looks super. Great work.

It looks great. Good work.

Thanks Mike Marking a new knife line hadn't occurred to me! I've basically been trying to do it by guesswork - taking a bit off, checking the result and repeating but it hasn't worked all that well. A new line or a hard edge to work to would solve that. I wish I'd asked sooner! I will...

You're right to some extent. Overall I'm really chuffed with it as I've never attempted anything like this before. However, I want to recognise the imperfections so I can improve. The main bit I'm disappointed with is the breadboard ends. The main issues were as follows: I hand flattened...

Thanks. I ripped the front apron into 3 sections. The middle section was crosscut to take out the drawer and then the apron was glued back together again. I did the cuts on a table saw and the wife kerf means the grain doesn’t match quite as well as it could, but it came out OK. Before gluing...

Another update on this. I dimensioned the boards for the main part of the top (combination of P/T, bandsaw and table saw) and jointed them by hand before gluing up and flattening. I then crosscut it into 3 parts and jointed the outer parts to a single board which runs across the front...

It looks great. Well done.