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Chain-link, plastic- coated fencing, and a vigorous climber such as Russian Vine; or Pyracantha for security. You have to get the trimmers out three or four times a year, but there's no painting, and the ugly chain link is soon hidden. HTH John (hammer)

There you go. Nice job Saeid. It went to the right place! I hope you get loads of good service from it. Regards to you and yours John

One of the reasons I don't like metal drawer slides. They are a bit of a faff to fit . I realise they can be useful in a kitchen, but they do waste space. So wherever possible I prefer a traditional fitted drawer. However if Rob's method works for him then ok. If it's a good solution then...

I wonder who's the chump with the topknot and the YouTube channel? :mrgreen: Glad I didn't start a YouTube woodwork channel; although I haven't got enough hair for a top knot! Cheers John

Hi GK. You should be able to find a copy of 'Cabinetmaking for Beginners' by Charles H Hayward. In that book there is an easy to follow chapter on basic drawer making. What we might call a WIP or step-by-step. The drawings are also clear and easy to understand. That's where I first learned...

I just noticed a remark on a slight curve across the edge of plane irons. The only planes I put an absolutely straight edge on are the ones I keep for truing narrow edges. For surfacing I always have the slight curvature present. I don't lose much cutting width, and the finish is much better...

I started out in the early 50s as a Stanley plane man but during my first year in the joiners' shop I acquired a 4 and a half Record smoother, on the advice of my Foreman. He was right . The Record planes just seemed nicer finished and generally performed better. A couple of years ago, on a...

A longer plane would be my choice over a No 4 smoother for instance. The six is the biggest plane I have, but I find the 5-1/2 Jack feels better to me in use. But that's just me. John (hammer)

Exactly. I fixed mine with a sheet of MDF; which also provided the back for storage. Then I added end panels and and sliding doors; and before I knew it, I had a bench with cupboard and drawer space underneath! If that's your thing of course. HTH Best of luck John (hammer) John

Hi AES, The job I needed the hand driver for was a case for Blu-ray discs. I could have oriented the case differently, yes but I wanted the holes on the inside, and preferred the ends inside the top and bottom. which meant no room for a power drill. So I fixed the screws with the hand driver...

For long straight edges I might prefer a 5-1/2 jack, or a No.6 fore-plane. Still, the plane is the tool you would prefer! A Festool track saw is reckoned to make a good edge joint, but I have not tried that. Certainly not for nice furniture. There's something satisfying about a hand worked...

If you have a Leigh dovetail jig, you have a hand driven Square Drive screwdriver that will fit the kreg screws. In the past I have used one to cinch down kreg screws by hand; when a power drill was too big. John

I would love an adirondack chair. The big problem is once I sat in one I would have a hell of a job getting back to my feet. John (hammer) :mrgreen:

I would never need screws of any sort with the dowel joints I used to make with the aforementioned Woden dowelling jig. In fact when I finally get around to new kitchen cabinets , I am going to use my trusty Woden jig again for the doors. John (hammer)

Quite agree Eric. You can just means you can! My 'go-to' method for face frames and utility doors used to be the Woden dowelling Jig. I tried to convert mine to metric, in the 70s, but it was a failure and the casting broke, reducing its use to a single dowel; which meant moving the jig to get...

Yes Bod. I agree. We have been left 'up in the air' by the post! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I've never used the small pocket-hole jig, but I believe it works in much the same way as the normal jig. There is also a larger model for heavy joinery, so someone must have confidence in the method. For home use, in certain circumstances, it's a good solution, so if you think it will serve...

According to Google Earth there is still one in Sutton Coldfield in Holland Street. Namely Adams. There's no parking though, so it looks like a taxi job if you're not too good on your pins. They will sell you one of anything and they were very good repairing my Tilley Lamp; which disappeared...

Trego Mills. I bought some cheap, cast iron 12" G cramps there. £2.50 each. I got a dozen. Didn't expect too much of them, but I used them well, and still have them. They are still serviceable. Made in China I think. I also got a nice Diston handsaw in Redruth. £30.00. Some time ago now...

In my 'paper-round' days, my father got me a part time job in an ironmongers, a welcome change to delivering papers. I did get tired of re-stacking paint tins after customers had sorted through, but apart from that it was a great little earner; and I loved the smells of the place. Lots of...